Texas Kayak Fisherman - Kayak Fishing the Lone Star State!

General Rigging Information
I'm going to give you a lot of information below about rigging, but my philosophy these days is to keep it simple. None of the stuff below will help you catch more fish, only keeping that line in the water, and keeping a bait on the hook will do that. The Boat: See the kayaks page for more suggestions. Here are some EXCELLENT PICTURES of how to really rig out your Scupper Pro T/W or Drifter or many other fishing kayak choices. I use a Wilderness Systems Tarpon 120 and an Ocean Kayak Drifter which are about 12' long. The Tarpon is the fastest sit-on-top I've found to date, and the stability is second to none. It tracks a straight line beautifully, and turns easier than its shorter counterparts. My first sit-on-top was a Ocean Kayak Scupper Pro T/W, another good boat. There are a lot of kayaks to choose from, and trying them is the only way to make up your mind. Some people swear by the Perception Prism, Bimini, Illusion or the Ocean Kayak "Drifter". Rigging the boat: I believe this is as personal as what kind of pants you like to wear. There are many ways to do this and no way is the right way. Although I've seen some "best" ways. First and foremost probably is the rod holders. Some use the "Kayak Fishing Seat", available at some of our local Kayak dealers, which has two rod holders built into the seat itself. This seat works beautifully on the Prism and Drifter. A third rod holder mounted on the deck slightly aft could be another consideration. Cabela's has many offerings when it comes to rod holders, give em a look. For a cheap rod holder, take a milk crate and strap it to your rear hatch and then use a couple of pvc pipe pieces tie-strapped to the crate as rod holders. You also get the added advantage of extra exterior stowage. The anchor Craig, a.k.a. "Yukon". The anchor is another piece of hardware that is an absolute must. The best way to rig it is like the photo you'll see here. But once again, it's not the only way. Craig used two pulleys at each end of the boat, and attached a triangle ring for hooking the anchor line to. I've chosen to use single pulleys at each end of the yak with a continuous loop of rope broken by a carabiner tied in on each side of the kayak. This allows you to attach the anchor rope to either side of the boat. The pulleys allow us to control the direction we face depending on the wind. Another way to anchor your position is to use two wooden dowel rods (3/4"dia.) about 4ft in length. Take the rods and push them through your scupper holes and into the sand/mud below. It's quick, easy, and you can then face the boat any direction you need to no matter the wind direction. Of course this only works in shallow water. They're also great for polling yourself through very shallow water when the paddle is hitting bottom. Put your paddle away and you can really scoot using the poles. The revolutionary "Bruce" anchor Because of its design, the Bruce has the holding power of either the 4lb Danforth, or the 4lb folding anchor. Actually it holds better! Ask someone who uses it, I do! It only weighs 3/4lb too. There is a slightly heavier Bruce (2.2lbs) available at BoatUS at the corner of Egret Bay Blvd. and Nasa Rd 1 in Houston (Clear Lake), that really seems to be better. The only problem with the lighter Bruce is it really isn't heavy enough. Depth finders are definitely not a must. But cool to have. I think it does give you that extra edge in trying to locate fish and, more importantly, fish-holding structure . I can see this really being handy in a fresh water lake. Can you say...Structure! I mounted mine directly to the deck. Some people use mounting bars, they are also convenient for hooking other equipment to them. You can't see it, but there's one on Craig's yak in the photo below. He has a rod holder also on the bar. There of course are many styles of Depth Finders. I use a Humminbird 100sx and an Eagle Fish Easy. These don't have a lot of bells and whistles but they show the depth, bottom contour, and structure, and that's all I need it for. They just happen to be some of the cheaper models! Depth Finder Rigging: I can pass on exactly how I mount depth finders on Drifters. This also works on any kayak with a flat or "bulging" center line. the only kayak that I'm not sure this works on is The Ride by Wilderness Systems, since it is more of a catamaran configuration. First: Depth Finder Selection: I've found that the less expensive, less powerful models give GREAT service in kayaks. The thin hull is very easy to shoot through. The Eagle FishEasy or the Humminbird Piranah are the easiest to use and do a great job. Next: select a mounting spot for your transducer. I like mine mounted right between my feet, under the unit itself so that I know exactly where the signal is produced. Bullet or hockey-puck type transducers work equally well in a kayak. Use a medium grit sand paper to rough up the aprox. 4" x 4" area where you will install the transducer. Next: apply a small puddle of 3M Marine Adhesive to the 4x4 area. Here I might mention to be careful not to trap any bubbles while applying the adhesive, too. Any air trapped will disturb, weaken, or completely eliminate your signal...this is a BAD thing. Work the transducer down into the dollop of adhesive being careful not to trap any air bubbles under the face of the transducer (the bullet types are easier to do this with since they have a rounded bottom). Have a length of 1x4 or 2x4 lumber ready to place on top of the transducer as well as some sort of weight like a gallon water jug (filled) so that the transducer will not 'float' to the top of the silicone puddle. You want the transducer to be in close contact with the hull for best signal strength. This will also allow you to control the angle of the transducer (as vertical as possible, unlike in a power boat where angling slightly forward is necessary to keep from outrunning your signal return...we are NOT worried about outrunning our signal, are we?) Let the setup dry overnight in a well ventillated area with no moisture. If you are doing this in the open yard just loosely replace your hatch. Now for the cables and battery installation: Find a good mounting spot on deck where you can reach the unit but it won't be in your way too much. I like mine right between my feet, directly over where I mounted the transducer. You may find that your kayak has a "shelf" to mount yours on like some of the newer yaks coming out this year. Mount your base with stainless or plastic bolts and nuts with a little of the silicone adhesive slathered on for water-tightness. Drill a hole forward of this setup just large enough to run your transducer cable end through. Run your cables through the hull and now you are ready to mount your battery. Cabela's (Cabelas.com)is the most reliable place to get batteries and charger for your unit. The battery shown for use with "Belly Boats" and Deer Feeders is just right for depth finders in kayaks. 12V (about 5"X 3"X 4"high). I use a "sling" system to keep my battery from sliding around in the hull. I found a trash recepticle in the automotive section of WalMart that has straps that normally go around the headrest in your car to hang the bag from the back of your bucket seat. You can put the battery in this and run the straps outside the hatch cover. When you "batten down the hatch" the battery is suspended in this vinyl pouch inside the hull with the power cable running out through the acess hole you drilled earlier. Be sure you get the charger with this battery. Normal auto battery chargers are much too strong for these batteries and will burn them up in no time. Put a little silicone around where the cables emerge from the hull and you are ready to mount the unit, turn it on and go for a spin. You might want to use some twist ties to secure all that cable laying in your hull, too. Remember, its very hard to get a signal unless you are in water...air does not transmit the signal very well at all. Don't expect a true test until you get in 3 feet of water or more. Read your depth finder instructions for adjustments, but I think you'll find that when you get in the water, these little units take over and do a great job all by themselves. If your puddle of adhesive works loose with heavy use, just add a little more, work out the bubbles, and go again. In-Dash Depthfinder: This is a In-dash Lowrance depthfinder, model 3500, with a hull-mounted Transducer, model PDW (192khz, 20deg). The Battery: I use a 12 volt/dc rechargeable battery that you can get at Cabela's. It comes with a charger too. I also put in a 1-amp fast-blow fuse that I got at Radio Shack. If there's a short at the battery due to water or whatever, it may save your finder from ruin. I store the battery in my forward hatch and put it inside a soft-sided "lunch" cooler/tote. Trolling Motor Mount: Now this isn't for every yakker but here's how to add power. and here's how he did it: The cross bar is 1 1/2" PVC pipe painted black. The wood block that the trolling motor bolts to is cut in an "L" shape, with the small part slid into the end of the PVC pipe. Two SS sheet metal screws from the outside of the pipe into the wood hold it in place. The cross bar is held in place by two long eye-bolts, with the eyes bent open so they can hook into the two black eye hooks that are peel riveted into the tank well. This motor was mounted on a Scrambler XT. Credit to Grey "Roaddog" Weill for his pictures and design. Thanks Roaddog!! Accessories: One nice thing is a soft-sided cooler big enough to keep fish in. As "Yukon" points out, If the fish are on ice then they'll stay fresher than dangling over the side on a stringer in that warm bay water. Also, after seeing an Alligator near Trinity Bay it made me think of another good reason. The gators and or sharks won't pull you over trying to get at your fish!

General Rigging Information

I'm going to give you a lot of information below about rigging, but my philosophy these days is to keep it simple. None of the stuff below will help you catch more fish, only keeping that line in the water, and keeping a bait on the hook will do that.

The Boat: See the kayaks page for more suggestions. Here are some EXCELLENT PICTURES of how to really rig out your Scupper Pro T/W or Drifter or many other fishing kayak choices.
I use a Wilderness Systems Tarpon 120 and an Ocean Kayak Drifter which are about 12' long. The Tarpon is the fastest sit-on-top I've found to date, and the stability is second to none. It tracks a straight line beautifully, and turns easier than its shorter counterparts.

My first sit-on-top was a Ocean Kayak Scupper Pro T/W, another good boat. There are a lot of kayaks to choose from, and trying them is the only way to make up your mind. Some people swear by the Perception Prism, Bimini, Illusion or the Ocean Kayak "Drifter".

Rigging the boat:

I believe this is as personal as what kind of pants you like to wear. There are many ways to do this and no way is the right way. Although I've seen some "best" ways. First and foremost probably is the rod holders. Some use the "Kayak Fishing Seat", available at some of our local Kayak dealers, which has two rod holders built into the seat itself. This seat works beautifully on the Prism and Drifter. A third rod holder mounted on the deck slightly aft could be another consideration. Cabela's has many offerings when it comes to rod holders, give em a look. For a cheap rod holder, take a milk crate and strap it to your rear hatch and then use a couple of pvc pipe pieces tie-strapped to the crate as rod holders. You also get the added advantage of extra exterior stowage.

The anchor

Craig, a.k.a. "Yukon". The anchor is another piece of hardware that is an absolute must. The best way to rig it is like the photo you'll see here. But once again, it's not the only way.  Craig used two pulleys at each end of the boat, and attached a triangle ring for hooking the anchor line to. I've chosen to use single pulleys at each end of the yak with a continuous loop of rope broken by a carabiner tied in on each side of the kayak. This allows you to attach the anchor rope to either side of the boat. The pulleys allow us to control the direction we face depending on the wind. Another way to anchor your position is to use two wooden dowel rods (3/4"dia.) about 4ft in length. Take the rods and push them through your scupper holes and into the sand/mud below. It's quick, easy, and you can then face the boat any direction you need to no matter the wind direction. Of course this only works in shallow water. They're also great for polling yourself through very shallow water when the paddle is hitting bottom. Put your paddle away and you can really scoot using the poles.

The revolutionary "Bruce" anchor



Because of its design, the Bruce has the holding power of either the 4lb Danforth, or the 4lb folding anchor. Actually it holds better! Ask someone who uses it, I do! It only weighs 3/4lb too.  There is a slightly heavier Bruce (2.2lbs) available at BoatUS at the corner of Egret Bay Blvd. and Nasa Rd 1 in Houston (Clear Lake), that really seems to be better. The only problem with the lighter Bruce is it really isn't heavy enough.

Depth finders

are definitely not a must. But cool to have. I think it does give you that extra edge in trying to locate fish and, more importantly, fish-holding structure . I can see this really being handy in a fresh water lake. Can you say...Structure! I mounted mine directly to the deck. Some people use mounting bars, they are also convenient for hooking other equipment to them. You can't see it, but there's one on Craig's yak in the photo below. He has a rod holder also on the bar.

There of course are many styles of Depth Finders. I use a Humminbird 100sx and an Eagle Fish Easy. These don't have a lot of bells and whistles but they show the depth, bottom contour, and structure, and that's all I need it for. They just happen to be some of the cheaper models!

Depth Finder Rigging:
I can pass on exactly how I mount depth finders on Drifters. This also works on any kayak with a flat or "bulging" center line. the only kayak that I'm not sure this works on is The Ride by Wilderness Systems, since it is more of a catamaran configuration.
First: Depth Finder Selection: I've found that the less expensive, less powerful models give GREAT service in kayaks. The thin hull is very easy to shoot through. The Eagle FishEasy or the Humminbird Piranah are the easiest to use and do a great job.
Next: select a mounting spot for your transducer. I like mine mounted right between my feet, under the unit itself so that I know exactly where the signal is produced. Bullet or hockey-puck type transducers work equally well in a kayak. Use a medium grit sand paper to rough up the aprox. 4" x 4" area where you will install the transducer. Next: apply a small puddle of 3M Marine Adhesive to the 4x4 area. Here I might mention to be careful not to trap any bubbles while applying the adhesive, too. Any air trapped will disturb, weaken, or completely eliminate your signal...this is a BAD thing. Work the transducer down into the dollop of adhesive being careful not to trap any air bubbles under the face of the transducer (the bullet types are easier to do this with since they have a rounded bottom). Have a length of 1x4 or 2x4 lumber ready to place on top of the transducer as well as some sort of weight like a gallon water jug (filled) so that the transducer will not 'float' to the top of the silicone puddle. You want the transducer to be in close contact with the hull for best signal strength. This will also allow you to control the angle of the transducer (as vertical as possible, unlike in a power boat where angling slightly forward is necessary to keep from outrunning your signal return...we are NOT worried about outrunning our signal, are we?)
Let the setup dry overnight in a well ventillated area with no moisture. If you are doing this in the open yard just loosely replace your hatch.
Now for the cables and battery installation: Find a good mounting spot on deck where you can reach the unit but it won't be in your way too much. I like mine right between my feet, directly over where I mounted the transducer. You may find that your kayak has a "shelf" to mount yours on like some of the newer yaks coming out this year. Mount your base with stainless or plastic bolts and nuts with a little of the silicone adhesive slathered on for water-tightness. Drill a hole forward of this setup just large enough to run your transducer cable end through. Run your cables through the hull and now you are ready to mount your battery. Cabela's (Cabelas.com)is the most reliable place to get batteries and charger for your unit. The battery shown for use with "Belly Boats" and Deer Feeders is just right for depth finders in kayaks. 12V (about 5"X 3"X 4"high).
I use a "sling" system to keep my battery from sliding around in the hull. I found a trash recepticle in the automotive section of WalMart that has straps that normally go around the headrest in your car to hang the bag from the back of your bucket seat. You can put the battery in this and run the straps outside the hatch cover. When you "batten down the hatch" the battery is suspended in this vinyl pouch inside the hull with the power cable running out through the acess hole you drilled earlier. Be sure you get the charger with this battery. Normal auto battery chargers are much too strong for these batteries and will burn them up in no time. Put a little silicone around where the cables emerge from the hull and you are ready to mount the unit, turn it on and go for a spin. You might want to use some twist ties to secure all that cable laying in your hull, too. Remember, its very hard to get a signal unless you are in water...air does not transmit the signal very well at all. Don't expect a true test until you get in 3 feet of water or more. Read your depth finder instructions for adjustments, but I think you'll find that when you get in the water, these little units take over and do a great job all by themselves. If your puddle of adhesive works loose with heavy use, just add a little more, work out the bubbles, and go again.

In-Dash Depthfinder:

This is a In-dash Lowrance depthfinder, model 3500, with a hull-mounted Transducer, model PDW (192khz, 20deg).

The Battery:
I use a 12 volt/dc rechargeable battery that you can get at Cabela's. It comes with a charger too. I also put in a 1-amp fast-blow fuse that I got at Radio Shack. If there's a short at the battery due to water or whatever, it may save your finder from ruin. I store the battery in my forward hatch and put it inside a soft-sided "lunch" cooler/tote.

Trolling Motor Mount: Now this isn't for every yakker but here's how to add power.

and here's how he did it:

The cross bar is 1 1/2" PVC pipe painted black. The wood block that the trolling motor bolts to is cut in an "L" shape, with the small part slid into the end of the PVC pipe. Two SS sheet metal screws from the outside of the pipe into the wood hold it in place. The cross bar is held in place by two long eye-bolts, with the eyes bent open so they can hook into the two black eye hooks that are peel riveted into the tank well. This motor was mounted on a Scrambler XT. Credit to Grey "Roaddog" Weill for his pictures and design. Thanks Roaddog!!

Accessories:
One nice thing is a soft-sided cooler big enough to keep fish in. As "Yukon" points out, If the fish are on ice then they'll stay fresher than dangling over the side on a stringer in that warm bay water. Also, after seeing an Alligator near Trinity Bay it made me think of another good reason. The gators and or sharks won't pull you over trying to get at your fish!

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