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Hoping someone can assist me in getting better results out of the Mirrolures.(suspending and sinking versions). I've 6 months into saltwater kayak fishing and trying to get in on the winter trout fishing I hear so much about. I have a general idea of how to work the lures, but the one thing I can't nail down is "how much force on the bait constitutes a "twitch"? I know it can vary based on water conditions, temps, etc, but what is a general idea to start with? From a seated position, is the rod tip up or out to the side? I've viewed countless videos on you tube, but nearly all of them are in warmer temps and standing with rod tip down. Any advice you could provide would be appreciated.

Vary your retrieve, if what you are doing isn't working, a different retrieve may entice a bite. Slow it down for Winter/Cold Water fishing.

Generally I consider about three inches of rod tip movement a twitch if you are using braid. For mono back in the ancient times it was more like 6 to 8 inches in my case. Get to some clear water and bring the lure in close so you can see how much movement is a twitch for your hands. It is a lot less than you might think. As far as I am concerned a twitch does not involve any reel cranking until the twitch is over. Then you take up the three inches of slack and pause for a five count or longer.

OOPS forgot the second part on rod tip location. High tip gets the bait to come up a bit with the twitch. Low tip generally leaves the bait lower after the twitch than the high tip twitch. Again practice in clear water a bit and you will see the difference. Keep in mind none of this is right or wrong just different techniques to cause different lure motions in hope of enticing fish bites.

Agree with all the advice posted above. Throwing ML twitch baits is a fun and great way to cover water and I've been throwing them for years. One variation that's really generated a lot of strikes for me is the surprising amount of force you can use on the twitch. Many times a pretty a violent double twitch with a long pause is golden! Variation in speed and depth is key until you get a bite then remember what you did and do it again.

FF I am in trouble. I am too old to remember what I just did to cause a bite! In my head I differentiate between twitch and jerk and quick longer pulls. As an earlier poster said vary everything until you get bites. Now if I can ever find some redfish.

Thanks guys. I'll try to employ these tips tomorrow.

X2

One distinction that is not mentioned here is twitching the lure on a slack line compared to pulling a tight line. To properly twitch or for that matter walk any lure, you 'twitch' will be from a slack or slightly drooping line twitch the rod back precisely to where the line tightens and immediately stop almost as if twitching the rod tip to a wall so to speak. From a standing taught line, drop the rod tip 3-4 inches and then bring it briskly back to the point that it again tightens. Do this rhythmically over and over and you'll correctly walk the dog on the surface or below the surface with any suspending twitch bait. If anyone wants to see this graphically it's on the TroutSupport.com Big Trout DVD.

To properly twitch or for that matter walk any lure, you 'twitch' will be from a slack or slightly drooping line twitch the rod back precisely to where the line tightens and immediately stop

That's golden, Tobin.

I use 52m's alot in the winter and i have good luck working them like a soft plastic. I cast and let it sink to the depth that i want and i usually twitch it twice, let it fall, twitch it once or twice, let it fall and repeat. If i know there are fish there and i don't get a hit, i might twitch it aggressively three times and let it fall. I think the trick is to vary your retrieve and remember what you did when you do get a bite.

crusher wrote:

To properly twitch or for that matter walk any lure, your 'twitch' will be from a slack or slightly drooping line twitch the rod back precisely to where the line tightens and immediately stop

That's golden, Tobin.

Thanks Crusher!
t

You don't want to twitch too hard because you will create a lot of slack and if they bite you will not feel it. Also, the harder you twitch the sooner you have to cast again.

For winter fishing the twitch should be slow down in between like 3-6 seconds in between. Fish want an easy meal and not have to work that hard to get it...

another way to think about is if you ever bass fish & have thrown a sinco or a fluke ... a finesse bait/weightless worm you want to work the suspending baits the same way.

mpg2yahoo wrote:You don't want to twitch too hard because you will create a lot of slack and if they bite you will not feel it. Also, the harder you twitch the sooner you have to cast again.

For winter fishing the twitch should be slow down in between like 3-6 seconds in between. Fish want an easy meal and not have to work that hard to get it...

This is one way to work it... and some days they want it like that. Work it several different speeds and see what the fish like. Sometimes the want it walked fast (that's not hard twitches, just repeated fast in succession to walk it).. and some days they want it in between. Read the water; read the bite.

let's go catch some fish.