Another rudder question

bigdav160 · Post by **bigdav160** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 10:42 am

My Sealline Rudder is here. Very nice stuff.

Although the instructions are pretty good I wonder how snug/loose the rudder housing should be in the kayak. The shaft of the rudder housing appears to be 3/8", the hole in the kayak seems to 1/2". If a bushing is needed can it be found at the hardware store or should I make one out of delrin/teflon/other?

CaptJack · Post by **CaptJack** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 10:48 am

see if a piece of 3/4" sch20 pvc pipe will work?

TKFStubb · Post by **TKFStubb** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 1:08 pm

The only problem that I see as it is...is that when drifting the extra play will cause wave action to make a lot of noise. Shim it up with SOMETHING to get the extra play out of it.

M-D · Post by **M-D** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 1:23 pm

Were it my boat, I'd lathe turn a bushing from either delrin or teflon, leaving a thin shoulder on the top to prevent the bushing from exiting downward. You could use UHMW, but that stuff wants to crawl away from the tool. If you make the bushing friction-fit to the boat, you'll have to leave the ID slightly oversized to account for the bushing crimping inward. I suppose you could make everything to size, press in the bushing, then re-drill the ID with the correct size drill bit.

M-D

CaptJack · Post by **CaptJack** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 2:05 pm

MD-
You bring up a good point.
If the pvc is even close to a fit - he could heat it up with a heat-stripper gun- when it got soft you could force it down the hole-
after it cooled you could re-drill the hole to fit the pintle.

spoonmaker · Post by **spoonmaker** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 3:26 pm

Try using 3/8" tubing to make a bushing. The outside diameter is 0.500"; the inside diameter is about 0.402 which is greater than 3/8" (0.375").

Barry's Dad · Post by **Barry's Dad** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 8:17 pm

Howdy,
If you are using this in Salt water pack it full of RTV or leave some room to wash it out.
You know how the salt will crawl in between things. It might be better to leave it just a might loose for cleaning.

bigdav160 · Post by **bigdav160** » Fri Sep 05, 2003 9:45 am

Ok, the solution was easier than I thought. I could have turned some plastic and made my own bushing but time is at a premium.

I trip to my local Sears Hardware produced some .500X.385 nylon bushings.

I little marine sealant and they fit snuggly in the pivot hole of the kayak.

Although the kit has one nylon thrust washer, I bought a couple extra to control endplay.

Ta Da.

Although Sealline recommends lowering the foot controls (SINK installation maybe??) the Sealline pedals screw into my existing holes and seem to be propery postioned.

Now time to run the cable sheathing.

TaylorSea4 · Post by **TaylorSea4** » Fri Sep 05, 2003 6:59 pm

Dave, nice job, dude. What sort of boat is that, anyway? I'm going to get (and install) a Sealine on my Scupper Pro. My boat has a different mounting area for the pintle pin, but OK makes the bracket I need to adapt the rudder system. Lemme know how the cable run goes. I'm interested to know how much of a pain in the arse it's gonna be!

-Taylor

bigdav160 · Post by **bigdav160** » Sat Sep 06, 2003 8:44 am

Taylor, I'm pretty sure your SPTW has a 3/8 pivot hole in the rear. There will probably be no need for bushings.

Here's a couple shots of my pedal installation. It wasn't apparent at first glance but the mounting holes in the Sealline pedals are higher than the factory pedals. I could have drilled new (lower) holes in the pedals but decided to take M-D's advice and drill new holes in my yak. After filling the the factory holes with "hot glue" I used self tapping sheet metal screws with their heads cut off as locating pins. This worked well as they went in straight and left some starter threads in the pedals. I drilled 1/4 holes so the mounting screws would tighten down on the pedals and not in the boat. Then using a offset screwdriver and a long reach through the hatch tightened the screws. Since my boat also has a large tankwell, I'm going to copy M-D and locate the rudder "raising" cord inside the kayak rather than run it on top of the deck.

TaylorSea4 · Post by **TaylorSea4** » Sat Sep 06, 2003 6:02 pm

Dave, that looks like an Islander, n'est pas? NICE stuff, indeed, bro. You're right about my Scupper as well; 3/8" pindle pin hole. I was mostly currious about the ease of installing the pedal rails and such. Looks to be within my ability. Please post some final pics when you're done, dude.

fishin' · Post by **fishin'** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 8:10 am

Nice install.
I've put Sealines in my Tarpon 160 and 120.

I have used the standard rudder blade in both. Read a post that said the tandem blade offers faster response. Any comments or experience with this blade?

fishin'

bigdav160 · Post by **bigdav160** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 10:33 am

Good eye, Islander Ventura it is.

Haven't been able to get a large block of time to work on it. Here is a couple shots of the cable installation that raises the rudder. A nice feature of this rudder is it can be raised and deployed from the saddle of the kayak. The nylon tubing I bought at Sears Hardware ($.19 ft). I decided on the center location for accessibility during installation and I have a lot of other items (seat straps, stringer, anchor) along the gunnels.

I'm not sure about the tandem blade. At first I had ordered the tandem as the standard blade is described as "short". The salesman easily talked me into the standard blade as he said it was plenty long enough for my boat.

TaylorSea4 · Post by **TaylorSea4** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 3:05 pm

Dave, keep at it, man. What's the running count on hours invested. I like your idea of the central located deployment cables. Different. Don't think I can go that route on my Scupper due to center hatch.

Which begs the question, how'd you run your cables to the stern of your boat? I didn't see a center hatch, but I know you can't be fishing it back there from the front hatch...

fishin' · Post by **fishin'** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 3:58 pm

Very nice job Dave. I like the cable layout for the up/down control especially. I think I will change up my setup like that on my T120. I think there is just enough room behind the tankwell in the rudder slot to bring the tubing out at a good angle. To answer Taylor's question on the fishing of the cable/controls, I would push the tubing from the back to the front then run the control line through the tubing then finish off the front section of the install. That is how I did my cable installs on the T16 and T120.
On my boats I fully enclosed the foot control cables in tubing from flush with the foot control to the exit at the rear of the boat and sealed for water intrusion. Similar to what you have done for the up/down control line.
I was thinking of the tandem rudder for its increased surface area but not the extra length. I'll have to compare the two types side by side.

Good job! :lol:

fishin'

TexasKayakFisherman.com

Another rudder question

Another rudder question

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