Homemade Poling Skiff-1
Homemade Poling Skiff-1
After seeing a Flatstalker at Ace Hardware, I really wanted to try a poling skiff.
I started this project on Friday, June 22nd and made my maiden voyage on Friday, June 29th.
Specs: 12 ft long X 40 inches wide X 6 inches deep. Hull weight 109 pounds. Removable platform with cooler 21 pounds. Cost of materials $225.
I started this project on Friday, June 22nd and made my maiden voyage on Friday, June 29th.
Specs: 12 ft long X 40 inches wide X 6 inches deep. Hull weight 109 pounds. Removable platform with cooler 21 pounds. Cost of materials $225.
- Attachments
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- Ready for top deck. I put spray foam and a couple of pool noodles in the hull for support and floatation.
- Day6.jpg (57.64 KiB) Viewed 14843 times
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- Frame and internal supports. Supports between main cross frames are made from corrugated plastic sign material.
- Day3.jpg (59.31 KiB) Viewed 14815 times
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- Main frame is made from 2X6 PVC fence railing.
- Day1.jpg (55.26 KiB) Viewed 14844 times
A few more comments.
I was shooting for a hull weight of about 80 pounds, which is what the Flatstalker hull weighs.
When I weighed the main frame, it was 36 pounds. However, by the time I added the internal supports, foam, and top and bottom decks (5mm luan underlayment), I ended up at 109 pounds. The total weight is still less than the Flatstalker because their box weighs 70 pounds, while mine weighs 21.
The only wood is the top and bottom deck and the transom, which is cedar.
I took it fishing on Saturday and it worked pretty well. As expected, wind can be a itchy-B. Without me on it (but with all my gear), it floats in about 1/2 inch of water. With me on it too (about another 240 lbs), it floats in about 2 1/2 inches.
Even though I have internal supports fairly close together, the 5mm decking is too thin. I had to really pay attention where I stepped to make sure I kept weight on the main cross members. Even though I hate to add more weight, I plan to add 1X2 cedar strips running lengthwise on the portion of the top deck where I stand.
It was a fun project.
I was shooting for a hull weight of about 80 pounds, which is what the Flatstalker hull weighs.
When I weighed the main frame, it was 36 pounds. However, by the time I added the internal supports, foam, and top and bottom decks (5mm luan underlayment), I ended up at 109 pounds. The total weight is still less than the Flatstalker because their box weighs 70 pounds, while mine weighs 21.
The only wood is the top and bottom deck and the transom, which is cedar.
I took it fishing on Saturday and it worked pretty well. As expected, wind can be a itchy-B. Without me on it (but with all my gear), it floats in about 1/2 inch of water. With me on it too (about another 240 lbs), it floats in about 2 1/2 inches.
Even though I have internal supports fairly close together, the 5mm decking is too thin. I had to really pay attention where I stepped to make sure I kept weight on the main cross members. Even though I hate to add more weight, I plan to add 1X2 cedar strips running lengthwise on the portion of the top deck where I stand.
It was a fun project.
FisherT:
I'm not sure that will work in this case. With a canoe or pirogue, weight on the hull is supported by water (you on one side, water on the other), so you can use thinner material.
When you have a top deck and a bottom hull, you have to transfer weight from the deck to the hull. That's why I have the internal supports made from corrugated plastic. They are on about 7 to 9 inch centers. I used the internal supports to try to distribute as much weigth as possible from the top deck to the bottom hull. It works okay as long as you step where there is any support below the deck.
Set your pirogues up on blocks then stand in it. My guess is that it will not be strong enough.
I'm not sure that will work in this case. With a canoe or pirogue, weight on the hull is supported by water (you on one side, water on the other), so you can use thinner material.
When you have a top deck and a bottom hull, you have to transfer weight from the deck to the hull. That's why I have the internal supports made from corrugated plastic. They are on about 7 to 9 inch centers. I used the internal supports to try to distribute as much weigth as possible from the top deck to the bottom hull. It works okay as long as you step where there is any support below the deck.
Set your pirogues up on blocks then stand in it. My guess is that it will not be strong enough.
- gerald
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- paddlin4reds
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Mornin';
Nice lookin' and great idea. But I have to agree with "FisherT". The fiberglass and epoxy resin is amazing. If the cross members were also 5mm luan and releif cut-outs made (maybe 1 1/2" holes), I bet you could easily get the weight down to 35-40lbs. The wood crossmembers could then be bounded to the upper and lower decks with thickened epoxy. You could jump up and down on it I do believe. It looks like an awesome boat. Great job. I bet it would work great tossin' a cast net for shrimp .
Nice lookin' and great idea. But I have to agree with "FisherT". The fiberglass and epoxy resin is amazing. If the cross members were also 5mm luan and releif cut-outs made (maybe 1 1/2" holes), I bet you could easily get the weight down to 35-40lbs. The wood crossmembers could then be bounded to the upper and lower decks with thickened epoxy. You could jump up and down on it I do believe. It looks like an awesome boat. Great job. I bet it would work great tossin' a cast net for shrimp .
- SafetyHooker
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Like the idea, post somemore info. I would like to try. Also between many more post we can come up with a good one. I saw the stalker at boat show last week. $1049.00 ouch. Also I mentioned 15 mph head wind at show. They added a 2 x 4 transom mount for troll motor. Need info on where to get materials. Maybe I missed something. I can come up with fabrication drawings for free with help. Would like to see up close. Can you please pm me to set up a meet. Anyime. Thanks.
- Mrs Backlasher
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flatstalker
looks good, great job
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Nice job on a shoe string budget.
A couple of suggestions though on material though. Instead of wood for the deck and corrigated plactic for support between the main beams, try FRP (fiber reinforced plastic). FRP is a more costly item but stronger than plywood, it is naturally water resistant and lighter. As a suggestion on how to get FRP at a lower cost go to a construction supply store (not a big box store ie., home depot, lowes) and find out if they have any damaged frp and make an offer. In most cases the damage is the corners are broken off about 2inches making it a loss to the company.
The second suggestion is to use sheets of styrofoam as your fillers and this will add strength to the deck as well as floation to your rig.
A couple of suggestions though on material though. Instead of wood for the deck and corrigated plactic for support between the main beams, try FRP (fiber reinforced plastic). FRP is a more costly item but stronger than plywood, it is naturally water resistant and lighter. As a suggestion on how to get FRP at a lower cost go to a construction supply store (not a big box store ie., home depot, lowes) and find out if they have any damaged frp and make an offer. In most cases the damage is the corners are broken off about 2inches making it a loss to the company.
The second suggestion is to use sheets of styrofoam as your fillers and this will add strength to the deck as well as floation to your rig.
I've built a jon boat and a small CC outboard skiff using the epoxy resin, fiberglass, and marine ply "stitch and glue" method that is also used to make a lot of kayaks, and it works very well for this type of construction. It is light and VERY strong construction, but the epoxy is relatively expensive. you can fill the internal voids with 2 part closed cell expanding foam, and it is very rigid and does not absorb water.
With glass and epoxy and 2 part foam, much less internal bracing would be needed, though it would take longer to build. Good work though. I wonder if old, cleaned up SOT sailboats with the sails and keel removed would work as well....
With glass and epoxy and 2 part foam, much less internal bracing would be needed, though it would take longer to build. Good work though. I wonder if old, cleaned up SOT sailboats with the sails and keel removed would work as well....