Fly Box for the Salt

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ben_beyer
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Fly Box for the Salt

Post by ben_beyer »

I'm looking to do more fly fishing on the Texas Coast in the AP/PA area. I have some fly patterns that I tie or buy and I'm wondering what everyone is using to keep them in on the kayak?

I've looked at multiple boxes and I don't mind carrying 2 or 3 if need be. Just trying to figure out what others are using and how you have things organized.
Kayak Kid
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Re: Fly Box for the Salt

Post by Kayak Kid »

I use old pill bottles placed in a small shoulder (or belt) bag.

When I replace a fly I've been fishing with, I let it dry on a strip of fuzzy cloth (?) that I have glued to the inside of my kayak.
Scott F
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Re: Fly Box for the Salt

Post by Scott F »

I use Plano boxes. Large and small.
Most of my Rockport flies have weed guards that don’t do well in conventional fly boxes.
If you fish over shallow grass, weed guards can help you out.
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Kirk B.
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Re: Fly Box for the Salt

Post by Kirk B. »

Kayak Kid wrote:I use old pill bottles placed in a small shoulder (or belt) bag.

When I replace a fly I've been fishing with, I let it dry on a strip of fuzzy cloth (?) that I have glued to the inside of my kayak.
I used a 2" square piece of the loop side of some sticky-backed Velcro for the same purpose. I have one venerable old fly that has been hanging there long enough for the hook to rust....
I store most of my flies in zipper bags. Stick a couple in my shirt pocket, and away I go.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

ben_beyer
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Re: Fly Box for the Salt

Post by ben_beyer »

Scott F wrote: Wed Mar 15, 2023 6:47 pm I use Plano boxes. Large and small.
Most of my Rockport flies have weed guards that don’t do well in conventional fly boxes.
If you fish over shallow grass, weed guards can help you out.
Ok, I've put some flies into a Plano style box in the past when I went with a guide.

I tie a lot of mine with a weed guard because of the grass in the PA/AP area.
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karstopo
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Re: Fly Box for the Salt

Post by karstopo »

In my experience, any of the slit foam fly boxes in the saltwater are asking for trouble. Salt air and salt laden moisture seems to find a way into those boxes and forever contaminate the foam. Maybe if all the flies are tied on stainless steel those boxes perhaps could be okay. I tend to avoid tying on stainless steel, though.

I like the plain plano type single layer boxes meant for lures. Those boxes come in a variety of sizes. The flies can be organized however you like. I tend to carry a bigger one and then a smaller one. I also have a 3” or so box to put soaked in saltwater flies into. Never put a fly that got used in the saltwater right back into the main box. That will contaminate the whole box with a corrosion infection. I’ll soak the used flies in fresh water and rinse repeatedly, completely air dry, then they might go back into the main boxes.

In my experience, saltwater flies, at least the ones tied on carbon steel, have a finite lifespan anyway. Fish with sharp teeth tear them to pieces or they get broken off or hung on shell well before they have a chance to rust away. If a fly pattern never gets shredded or mashed or mangled by sharp teeth and strong jaws, it probably isn’t all that great to begin with.
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Re: Fly Box for the Salt

Post by ben_beyer »

Lol, true on keeping things segregated.

When using conventional gear, whatever boxes I open up, everything with metal gets soaked in water with a drop of dish soap after I'm done. I have done similar with the few flies I've taken with me on guided trips.
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karstopo
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Re: Fly Box for the Salt

Post by karstopo »

I carry a ceramic hook hone. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve used that. Countless, really. Ceramic because saltwater will eat up the diamond or corundum impregnated steel ones.

Smooth, sharp, light wire hooks penetrate and set in a fish’s jaw easier than pitted, dull, heavier wire hooks. One more reason I like quality forged carbon steel hooks is that forged carbon steel is stronger than stainless steel so that the wire can be thinner and still get the job done. Forged Carbon steel hooks are less soft and less prone to hook point roll than stainless steel upon striking something hard like jaw bone or oyster sheel.

But, carbon steel hooks, even the tin plated type, are more apt to corrode and get rougher than stainless, not that stainless steel won’t corrode on its own. A few deft strokes with the ceramic hone any light corrosion is abraded away. Clean, smooth and ultra sharp, relatively thin wire hooks almost melt through flesh. Micro barbs offer almost zero resistance going in, but try tearing one from your own flesh and you’ll realize they have amazing holding power.

After almost countless trips in the saltwater, I’ve come to know that hook points are very prone to damage and that a good hone is essential equipment. It’s eye opening to see a stainless steel hook point rolled over on itself after a hard set into a fish or bump on rip rap or shell.

Pay attention to the hooks you use and how sharp they are. It can be frustrating to say the least to make that good cast, make an otherwise good strip set on a quality fish and then have it come off because the hook wasn’t sharp, or smooth, or the point had rolled.
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