best way

[motoyak]

...to haul a kayak on a roof rack (2 cross bars system approx 3' apart). Upside down or right side up? Assuming pads are used either way.
Also, are bow and stren lines needed?
Your thoughts?

[loonycamp]

Bow and stern lines are needed imo. They ensure that the yak won't get blown at an angle from a cross wind. Also, on my set up my stern line is the best connection to prevent the yak from flying forward and doing further damange if I ran into the back of someone.
I put mine upside down because the gunwale is the strongest part on mine, but yours may be different.

[motoyak]

Bow and stern lines are needed imo. They ensure that the yak won't get blown at an angle from a cross wind. Also, on my set up my stern line is the best connection to prevent the yak from flying forward and doing further damange if I ran into the back of someone.
I put mine upside down because the gunwale is the strongest part on mine, but yours may be different.

opps, excuse my fingers...stern. I could load either way and have heard pros/cons towards up or down. Seems down is more aerodynamic but pressing on the bottom could cause issues in the Texas heat. Another thing on down is the muddy or sandy side is up...could help save the cars roof finish.
Dunno about the lines helping in crosswinds, its secured at 2 points. I like your idea about the stern helping in quick stops.

[Kitsune]

I have always carried my kayaks upside down. I face the bow toward the rear of my vehicle in my current situation. On longer kayaks I would use bow/stern straps. All my kayaks have been 12feet and under and I have never had an issue with the kayak moving. However, I use good straps and cinch down really good. My current Ocean Kayak Caper rides like a surf board. It makes no noise and doesn't move. I always use pads on the bars though, this keeps the kayak from moving too. Each kayak, bars, and vehicle is different. Just play around with it, take it for a test run, and it will work out. This picture from my not so smart college days. We took it over bridges and in wind and the kayaks stayed the whole time. We really cinched them down though

[impulse]

If I'm staying on the island where the speed limit is 45 and any trip is less than 30 minutes, I don't use bow and stern lines.

I've stuck my hand out the window at 70 MPH and have no doubt that a good gust could fold a long kayak in half. Besides that, there's always a risk that one of the straps will abrade away or slip and unhook. So I always double or triple up on the straps and use the bow and stern lines if I'm leaving the local area. Then I stop after the first stretch at speed to recheck the straps and retighten the bow and stern lines. Almost every time, the straps will need to be cinched down.

I prefer to haul them upside down to keep the sun and rain and dust off of the topside, but that's not possible with a lot of today's elevated seats. It also makes it very hard to slide them into place as I get older since the seats, rod holders, etc. tend to snag on the racks and the saddles. I guess it would be different if I drove a low slung car, but I can't muscle one up on top the van from the side. I'm nowhere near tall or strong enough. So they slide up there from behind.

[deptrai]

I think the best way would be to obtain some type of cradle that fits your round or square bars. Something like Yakima Mako Saddles or HullyRollers. Thule makes similar products.