TexasKayakFisherman.com est. 2000

Kayak fishing the Lone Star State...


Please Visit our Sponsor Hook1 Kayak Fishing Gear
User avatar
By Ron Mc
#2290279
Kalait wrote:Ron Mc, what are the clips you have on your red and yellow lines. You have the setup I have planned for my yak.

Scotty clips - Scotty 590 snap hook - you can buy them in a bag of 6
Image
They have a slot for webbing, or 1mm lashing, but it has an easy guide to drill one or two 3/16" hole(s)
The same clips I'm using to attach the stern block through the bungee loop.
User avatar
By TexasJim
#2290280
Ron: My Pescador 12 trolley is almost identical to your rig, except I use a "S-Biner" instead of a ring for the anchor line. I can simply clip the line in from the side, rather than having to feed it thru a ring. The line feeds to a small horn cleat next to my seat, for easy adjustment. TexasJim
User avatar
By Ron Mc
#2290282
that works - maybe show a photo sometime
TexasJim wrote:Ron: My Pescador 12 trolley is almost identical to your rig, except I use a "S-Biner" instead of a ring for the anchor line. I can simply clip the line in from the side, rather than having to feed it thru a ring. The line feeds to a small horn cleat next to my seat, for easy adjustment. TexasJim

My Z-cleat arrived in today's mail.
I spent some time thinking about where to put it.
Since I aligned the fairleads to let the top line clear on either side of the lift handle, I finally decided to do the same thing with the Z-cleat, and it couldn't be better
Image the Z-cleat works with the top line on either side of the side carry handle, and it's a quick motion from the cockpit to either seat or free it
Image

ps - I found a great place to buy hardware, such as blocks and cleats - they don't sell lines - and their basic shipping is $1.99
https://www.trapout.com/
User avatar
By Ron Mc
#2290459
other than a few clip-on peripherals, Redfish rigging is done.
Hardest reach of all was installing the stringer cleat, through the front hatch.
But I practiced it for two weeks and got the necessary 11/32" nut driver for the backing nyloks -
I installed the pressure washers with one finger, which was all that would reach.
Everything worked like clockwork when I tackled it tonight - didn't think twice about drilling the holes to begin.
Image btw, found a sale (SailRite) on Harken micro cam cleat + wire fairlead base kit, bought this for the price of either Shaffer or Nautos, and much less than Ronstan - also better springs in this cleat than Shaffer. Mounting this took at least 1-1/2" 8-32s, but the longer reach was made easier with a 2" No. 8.
Image
Image
I did learn something useful about drilling holes - 16 of them over this month-long rigging exercise - all backed with nyloks + bonded pressure-seal washers.
Before I drilled the first hole, was positioning parts with foam poster tape - it also makes the perfect drilling guide.
Stick a square of poster tape behind each faster hole and position the part - when you have it correct, press hard.
With your smallest drill bit, it's easy to eye-ball center, the foam tape keeps your drill bit from walking.
Remove the part and tape, and each bore-up will be perfectly concentric.
The part zips in place.
Image
Since I have way more Scotty bases than rod holders, I ordered 2 Stealth QR-1(NB) rod holders, which look like an improvement over Soctty's bait/spin rod holder choices, and the post is copied to plug right into Scotty bases.
This guy has them in stock and can mail them right out, a slightly discounted price made up by the shipping cost.
Amazon was listing 1-2 month delivery - retail, free shipping plus tax that priced them a bit higher.
http://www.captmacks.com/store/product/ ... hout-base/
By scrapiron
#2306891
Thought I'd keep this thread alive. Many, many thanks to RonMC with all his help on getting a no drill anchor trolly installed on my kayak.

I pretty much followed his excellent instructions- though with life it took a lot longer for me to get installed. I've got a Jackson Kayak Cuda LT- 13 foot thermoformed SOT.

I used pretty much RonMC's inventory of parts. I used quality line and bungee (sailrite.com) since I'll be in saltwater 40% of my time. Same with the pulleys, etc.

Biggest challenge was the rear hook up. Right now I've got it attached to the drain plug, which isn't ideal and I'm still thinking through how else to attach it to keep the pulley at level so it doesn't twist. Using the rear handle puts the pulley too far inward and the trolley line gets crossed. Any suggestions are welcome.
Attachments
IMG_0805.jpeg
IMG_0804.jpeg
IMG_0803.jpeg
IMG_0802.jpeg
User avatar
By Chubs
#2306902
I'm late to this party, and looks like you have a nice install there, and Ron as always you have some great ideas, .

If you want the cheapest anchor trolley money can buy which will stand up in the salt water, get 3 aluminum carbineers ($9 for a 9 pack at amazon):
https://www.amazon.com/STURME-Carabiner ... 387&sr=8-6

I bought this one for $9 for a 6 pack (didn't see the 9 pack deal when I bought these 2 years ago, doh!).
https://www.amazon.com/Outmate-Aluminum ... 387&sr=8-9

Get you a length of thick rope, low stretch preferred. Thick is important because the thin rope is not going to have enough friction. Mine's is a thickness somewhere around the diameter of my ring finger.

Clamp your carbineers onto any rigging you have at the front and back of your kayak, tie your rope to the 3rd carbineer, loop the rope through the front and then back carbineers, and then tie the other end of rope back to the 3rd carbineer. Apply tension but it doesn't have to be super tight. Ideally the 3rd carbineer is on the outside of the loop (not on the seat side, that's the side you'll want to pull.

Now you have a cheapo anchor trolley! The friction of the rope (remember, I said thick rope!), is going to hold you in place so you don't need any extra equipment (no cleats, no pulleys, etc). Clamp your anchor to the 3rd carbineer in the middle and you can pull the inner loop rope forward/ backward/ whatever you need.

Trust me this works, this was my solution for my inflatable kayak... Not drilling holes in that!!!
User avatar
By Ron Mc
#2306931
scrapiron, that looks familiar - I bet it works great.
thanks for all your kind words, friends.
By scrapiron
#2306969
A consolidated parts list:

1. Ronstan 20mm Orbit blocks
2. Scotty clips (pack of six)
3. New England Spyderline 2.8mm
4. New England Spyderline 1.8mm
4. Sea Dog 1-1/2" ring
5. Shock bungee 3/16"
6. Ronstan Shocks (2)

All line was from http://www.sailrite.com
Pulleys, shocks, and clips were from Amazon.com
Seadog ring was from Hook 1 Outfitters

I ordered 32 feet of anchor line, 10 feet of bungee and 6 feet of 1.8mm line. My kayak is 12'11" long. That left me enough 2.8mm line to have about 8 feet (haven't measured) as a tow/dock rope. I had enough bungee and clips left over to secure my crate (and very well I might add, that thing doesn't move now).

Just realized I got the same color line as RonMC. LOL. The sailrite website has more options and they were very fast on shipping out. As RonMC has said, those Scotty clips are addictive. I need more already.

With the recent very high tides from TS Beta and r[…]

Sure thing!

Fishing during and around a new moon is my favorit[…]

SOLD Tarpon 140 with Rudder

More pics https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn[…]