I went to work improving stringer cleats on both of my boats.
Since this one is cheap, easy, and done, I'll show it now. No holes - attached everything to the dashboard bar on my daughter's Redfish 10.
I already had the Z-cleat installed, already had the clam cleat in spares, and bought a $3 nylon fairlead on ebay.
You put the pointy end through the fairlead at the starboard end of the dashboard. Since I have a 12' stringer here, you need to take in about half of that. Bring in the long tag and cleat the clam cleat next to the fairlead quickly. It's rock solid.
Make a quick U and double cleat at the Z-cleat.
The nice thing about this setup, aside from being handy and quick, it keeps the 6' tag of a 12' stringer neatly out of the way.
The fairlead mount was drilling two holes in the bar on 7/8" centers, for #8 screws.
If you're wondering about the yellow marks on the dashboard, they're 15" 20" and 25".
I've got a really slick idea for using the slidetrax on my Tarpon 160, a Schaefer quck-entry cam cleat I found on sale, and tapping EZ-lok thread reducers into a pair of the Harmony slidetrax brass nuts to accept the small #8 machine screws the cleat uses. Everything is ordered, and I'll take some photos and add a post when I have it rigged.
I do have a photo of the Schaefer cam cleat, except this one is on a swivel fairlead and is a $120 part.
Mine will have a simple wire fairlead base, the same blue saddle and cam cleat, and was $24.
The whole thing is not much bigger than the fairlead in the photos above - the fastener centers are 1-1/16", and it's rated for 200-lb.