2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

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kickingback
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2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

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Got more pics and upgrades....

I'll try to keep it brief. If you want any specific info on my upgrades please PM me and I will answer if I can.

My 2011 Hobie PA 14. Bought it locally and it is used but in excellent condition. I will try to cover all my upgrades and items I have added to my kayak.

Bought two of these inflatable seat and back rests. They are adjustable with air and work great for back support and one under the seat for sitting on. This one is made by Realtree and bought at Walmart for $15. You have to look around the web for new ones. Found this one out there. Hobie sells one for $45 exactly the same...

http://www.farmandhomesupply.com/huntin ... o-136.html
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My waterproof floating Raovac flashlight bought from Amazon. Added a white float to see it in the dark better...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JM ... UTF8&psc=1
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My NRS PFD with safety water light and Gerber dive knife, small signal mirror, whistle, and a small backup light....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HB ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E9 ... UTF8&psc=1
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My manual bilge pump and sponge...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0020 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/ROBERTS-Q-70005Q ... rds=sponge

My drift sock...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014 ... UTF8&psc=1

My binoculars...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AX ... UTF8&psc=1

My head lamp for night fishing...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SW ... UTF8&psc=1

My tie down net for the stern storage...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022 ... UTF8&psc=1

Added reflective tape to the sides and front of my Hobie and on the paddle and bought the "T" handle from Hobie to make single ore with handle...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IC ... UTF8&psc=1
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/124 ... e%20handle
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Added 1/4" foam padding into side storage areas to reduce noise (black foam under rods)...

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My FM/Bluetooth speaker. This sounds awesome and lasts a long time on a single charge. I can go 15 hours with one charge...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F4 ... UTF8&psc=1
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I use this SAE to USB to charge my phone and speaker if needed...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W2 ... UTF8&psc=1

I can check the battery level if needed using this SAE battery tender...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ ... UTF8&psc=1

Bought this paddle for use on docks to pull close and pushing off or to hit and kill fish or just one handed paddling. It is great to have!!!...
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/137 ... addle.html
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Made my own 360 all around light. I bought some LED single bright lights from Academy when they were on sale for .50 for two lights. I think they discontinued them. I got a piece of small PVC and glued the lights to the pvc so they were on four sides. I then inserted the wires and the small PVC into a wider PVC to hold the wiring and lights and added a small clear PVC tube piece around the lights to keep them waterproof. I added an SAE plug to plug into any SAE. I also bought a small 12V double AA battery box to run the light on it's own if needed. Attached with velcro for stand alone. Painted it and added flags and reflective tape. The base is a 1 1/4" to 3/4" reducer to fit in rod holder middle slot...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE ... UTF8&psc=1
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Bought a dry bag from Academy and keep my Horixon HX300 radio as well as first aid kit and other safety supplies for emergencies...
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/marine- ... id=3561058
https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Horizon ... B00AJVXA5W
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Made my own LED spot light. Bought from Amazon and installed it on 1" PVC so it fits in my rod holder which is 1 1/4". Put an SAE connector on it...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z ... UTF8&psc=1
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Here is my 3 lb anchor system homemade with anchor trip link i bought on Ebay...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anchor-Trip-Lin ... 281d7ad416
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Here is what I normally take with me on a 12 hour trip. A tackle bag, a cooler, and a box of pre-rigged lures.
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Made my own stake out pole from 3/4" fiberglass tree stake and added a PVC "T" handle and lanyard. Bought a PVC valve to use as a stake out pole anchor for yak. Simple turn of handle locks it in place or lets it drop to the bottom. Added 1" PVC and coupler to bottom of valve to stick in scupper holes adn added some tape to dampen the noise and make a tight fit. Works great!..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034 ... UTF8&psc=1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321522588283?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
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Bought a cheap solar windshield protector from an auto parts store and cut to fit for my front and middle hatches. Keeps it 5-10 degrees cooler in the sun I have found...
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I bought the hatch seal from ACK for the front hatch bucket. It came with a rubber gasket that was loose and the bucket sat on top of it and the lid closed on bucket. The hatch seal goes on the top to seal better and prevent leaks. I glued the bottom gasket to the bottom lip of the bucket and now the front is sealed tight when closed...
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/155 ... tch%20seal
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I added my own anchor trolley. Bought some heavy duty anchor line. Bought two stainless pulleys from Amazon and two SS 2" rings from Home Depot and added guides for the top rope. Cheaper than buying a new anchor trolley kit...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V ... UTF8&psc=1
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I installed a ball mount on the seat for my Helix 5 SI sonar and a ball mount up front for my transducer to make sure it is clear of my mirage drive. I plug in to the SAE port for easy removal and secure storage...
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Built my own "big arse" rod holder. I used 1 1;/4" PVC and made some of the pieces removable for storage and transport. I drilled holes where they connect and used a cotter pin to secure instead of permanent PVC glue. I started out with just the back part with 6 rod holders and the light holder. I then saw a guy who made the extensions next to seat and they are VERY convenient and close and can be used for trolling. I made the top rod holders movable to set the rod pointed out for trolling. Painted everything white to reflect the sun. The black strips on the holder are velcro to attach to items to keep from loosing them. Easy build...
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Raised my seat 3 1/2" by adding 2x4's between the seat and seat mount. It is easy to build but the long bolts are hard to find so I ahd to drill a hole for shorter screws for same effect. It is more comfortable being higher with my bad back. I have to compensate now as center of gravity is now higher and makes it easier to tip. Will probably take it off when I go BTB to be safe...
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Now for some of the big upgrades.
Bought this battery to power everything on the yak. This battery is 35 amp hours and lasts long on a charge. I powered my lights, sonar, spot light and charging my phone for one night and only 10% of the battery was used over a 12 hour period. It is a heavier battery (23 lbs) but I got it so I could power a trolling motor if I later add one home made. I will post at end how I will do it...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8 ... UTF8&psc=1
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I wired the lights to run to switches I mounted under the seat on the middle hatch. Used waterproof switches and used liquid tape to completely seal the connections and exposed wires. Salt water will not penetrate it or make it come off like electric tape. I used 14 gauge wire for the lights which is fine for the small amps they use and I used heavier 10 gauge for the two SAE sockets I added to plug in SAE items like flood lights and higher amp items. Put a 15 Amp fuse at the battery for entire system. Battery is strapped in. I figure no need to waterproof a sealed battery. If I add a trolling motor later I will buy another battery like this one and it will sit side by side in the front hatch and I could go all day and then some as I can use both batteries if one dies while on the water. I still have to tidy up the wires with some zip ties as I just put the electrics in yesterday...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AW ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008C ... UTF8&psc=1
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The lights were bought at Academy for both the green outside lights and white interior lights. I drilled the smallest holes I could and ran the wires and gooped it real good int he hole and where I screwed the lights to the outside to better protect them from bumps to the side of the yak...
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/marine- ... id=1021882
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/no-limi ... id=1011854
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That about covers it I think. If you need more information let me know. I had fun upgrading and I will be adding some more decals to the side in the future.

Oh, and if you look at the pictures of the lights above you will see my handle I use in most forums. I got the decals from here... http://www.decalnetwork.com

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Thanks for looking!
Last edited by kickingback on Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:58 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Mythman
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by Mythman »

Impressive................if I added all that to my PA-14, I would have to lose about 30 lbs for it to carry me!!! :wink:
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kickingback
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

LOL Thanks! I only weigh all of 170 pounds. I used to weigh 300 pounds until my health went bad and had to lose all my weight. Feel so much better now!
seaaggie_99
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by seaaggie_99 »

Awesome work Kickingback - appreciate the detail and the links! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Question I have (well, one of several) is related to your light setup. I haven't ever put my hands on any of these LED strips or seen them in use in person so I'm a little ignorant regarding the setup (and completely ignorant when it comes to the electrical!). What drilling is required on the hull (is it just the hole to pass the power wire, or do the attachment screws fully penetrate also?) and what prep did you do (i.e. pre-drill, or just goop the screw threads and bash on with it)?

Also, I noticed they go all the way to the back corners of your yak; do you have to get access to the inside that far back or was it just screw in from the outside?

My PA14 is a 2013 and I noticed looking at your pics that there's a few minor differences in our hull compartment / scupper arrangement (I think). Anyway, appreciate your feedback (feel free to send response in a PM)... wouldn't mind hooking up on a trip sometime to compare notes!
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kickingback
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

Thanks seaaggie_99!! Would be great to get on the water together sometime!

Thought I'd answer here in case others are wondering.
The lights are easy to install. I went with the Academy ones as they have a strong plastic outer backing and wrap around on the lights to protect them better than the ones you buy on EBay. I had some on my other yak and they got roughed up on rocks and stuff and just didn't last. I added these to my other yak a while back and have not had any issues with them.
These have end caps where the wires can hide behind and I just drilled a small enough hole to get the wires through. I put the strip light in the plastic outer backing. I cleaned the area on the yak with isopropyl alcohol and removed the backing tape on plastic strip. I then get the light as close to the yak as possible without sticking it on and goop around the hole where the wires go in as and then firmly push the plastic on the yak. I then gooped the holes on the plastic end caps and screwed directly into holes with goop and it seals after drying. I then gooped the outside of the end caps to make sure the ends were sealed well from the saltwater. Cleaned it up and it looks good.
Being a lightweight item like the lights self tapping screws are fine and no need to get inside. If you decide to remove later all you need is some plastic and weld the small hole closed.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you need any more info!


Also wanted to clarify to everyone that most all these mods were found on YouTube and the internet in forums. I played around with some other mods that didn't work. These are working for me that is why I posted to maybe help others like I have been helped! I will post soon after making my "Mirage Trolling Motor"...lol
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by Drifting Yak »

You've obviously done some research Mr. kickingback! Gives us things to think about so thanks for the detailed posting.
Last edited by Drifting Yak on Tue Aug 30, 2016 7:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Gotta Catch Em All
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by Gotta Catch Em All »

That must be one of the best setups on TKF.

The seat riser looks great too! glad you were able to install it. It seems to make pedaling much easier from that angle.

How do you like the valve anchor thing?

Also I made a trolling motor similar to VentureTube's. Works pretty well
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kickingback
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

Thank you very much!

The seat is more comfortable for sure! I just have to watch it when I lean over the side as it tilts the yak more being only 3.5" higher.

I think you are talking about the stake out pole with PVC valve. It works perfect! All I have to do is turn around and turn the valve and the pole drops to anchor. I then tighten the valve back and it holds the pole at that depth. Even if you do not stick it all the way in the mud or shell it will stay at that depth so if you do drift it will catch again shallower. When I am ready to pull up anchor I open the valve and pull the pole up to the lines I marked on it to show me it is all the way up in the scupper. I like it! Don't have to drag it out and deploy and store after each use. It is always ready to deploy or retract. Here is the video on it...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e68T5KkMn7g

If you were asking about the anchor...
The anchor trip link works great! I don't have to have zip ties to re-tie if I have to break anchor loose. The trip link simply "opens" up on the end where the little clamp holds the opening together. It "pops off" when you pull hard and all you have to do is put it back in the caribiner to reset. Much more easier than zip ties. You can adjust the tension easily on the trip link as well to release easy or harder by sliding the little clamp closer to the opening on the trip link. This makes it harder for the opening to open enough to release it. Hope that explains it well. If you don't use a caribiner on the anchor you will have to have a pair of pliers to open and close the little clamp on the trip link. You can re arm it with your fingers if they are strong but pliers work best.

Thanks again.
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kickingback
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

Gotta Catch Em All wrote:That must be one of the best setups on TKF.

The seat riser looks great too! glad you were able to install it. It seems to make pedaling much easier from that angle.

How do you like the valve anchor thing?

Also I made a trolling motor similar to VentureTube's. Works pretty well


LOL I just noticed it was you that made the video...LMAO...THANKS!
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kickingback
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

Forgot to add these two items I just finished building.

A gaff from an old golf club with stainless gaff hook and noodle to make it float. Thanks Prof Salt!
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My new home made bump board. Used 1/4"x 8" vinyl siding to make it. Cut to length, sanded, cut handle hole and used SS screws and hinge. I have a new tape decal to put on as yet. It is 30" long closed and 45" open all the way. Used velcro to keep it folded up. Not sure if it floats (was told it does) but if it doesn't i will add some foam....
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FingerMullet
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by FingerMullet »

Dang!! Nice set up!! Just add water..


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kickingback
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

Thank you!

Board is done...
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Roy
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by Roy »

Nice job on the ad ons! Just an FYI- a lot of people 'raised' their seats on the older PA's (using swivel seat mounts, or custom brackets like yours); unfortunately, doing so changes the flex dynamics on the floorboard (more stress) and some people developed cracks in the hull at these weak points. Good luck and welcome to the PA club! :dance:
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niswanger
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by niswanger »

kickingback,

Fantastic idea! Is this gate valve ideal for a manual power pole setup through your scupper hole your original idea? Man to think about using a gate valve is pretty creative. I wanted to share with you how I "think" I've improved on the design using 1" CPVC instead of 3/4" regular white sch 40 PVC:

https://youtu.be/6IRy47YMF4A?t=876
kickingback wrote:Thank you very much!

The seat is more comfortable for sure! I just have to watch it when I lean over the side as it tilts the yak more being only 3.5" higher.

I think you are talking about the stake out pole with PVC valve. It works perfect! All I have to do is turn around and turn the valve and the pole drops to anchor. I then tighten the valve back and it holds the pole at that depth. Even if you do not stick it all the way in the mud or shell it will stay at that depth so if you do drift it will catch again shallower. When I am ready to pull up anchor I open the valve and pull the pole up to the lines I marked on it to show me it is all the way up in the scupper. I like it! Don't have to drag it out and deploy and store after each use. It is always ready to deploy or retract. Here is the video on it...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e68T5KkMn7g

If you were asking about the anchor...
The anchor trip link works great! I don't have to have zip ties to re-tie if I have to break anchor loose. The trip link simply "opens" up on the end where the little clamp holds the opening together. It "pops off" when you pull hard and all you have to do is put it back in the caribiner to reset. Much more easier than zip ties. You can adjust the tension easily on the trip link as well to release easy or harder by sliding the little clamp closer to the opening on the trip link. This makes it harder for the opening to open enough to release it. Hope that explains it well. If you don't use a caribiner on the anchor you will have to have a pair of pliers to open and close the little clamp on the trip link. You can re arm it with your fingers if they are strong but pliers work best.

Thanks again.
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kickingback
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Re: 2011 Hobie PA 14 Upgrades

Post by kickingback »

Actually it was Jeff Bonham YouTube he made one and I copied it. He and Coop (thresherfishing) is cool to watch! Lots of live shows fishing. You did a good job on the video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e68T5KkMn7g
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