New Project C1 canoe

[Weasle]

Attaching my next project. This will be my first attempt at a wood strip. This dimensions out to be classified as a USCA C1 boat. I am looking for speed and comfort. It is somewhat modelled after the Wenonah advantage. Where do you buy wood to rip your own wood strips? Western red cedar is the staple, can you use pine? Do you rip thick and plane down? Has anyone used Hot glue gun to attach strips? would it work? Lots of questions.

C1.doc

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[gerald]

You can use pine and quite a few other woods, but there are few that are better than WRC due to strength and light weight. I generally pick up my WRC at Home Depot or Lowes. It's just plain old WRC. I pick through it until I find boards that I can rip up and get plenty of strips. In rare cases I'll order some A grade WRC from Redwoods Inc. here in Waco. I rip usually 1/4" and whatever the width is. When installing it you will plane the edges to fit--called a rolling bevel. Not hard with a few basic hints.

I normally staple the strips on the forms. I don't mind the holes--even consider them part of the project--and my hulls generally get an impregnated graphite coating anyway. I sometimes do stapleless on the decks of certain boats. A dab of hot glue is one way to install the strips, but I've found that it needs to be used sparingly. Tape, clamps, straps, jigs, etc. are other ways to go stapless. Stapleless is harder and more time consuming. Absolutely nothing wrong with going stapleless if you want but think about the use of the boat, what you want it to look like, whether you need it to look this way, or you just want it to be stapleless before making this decision.

The Wenonah Advantage is a good boat. So is the Voyager (but it doesn't fit the rules), and the Sawyer Shockwave. Since I'm getting older I'm also considering building a canoe that fits these rules. ICF canoe rules are easy...

I can't download your design. You may need to use a photo site in order to show stuff off. I also have a guest album on my site where anybody can upload pictures as long as they aren't too big. You can also link to that. Can't remember what the limit is. In any case, most pictures should be around 640 X 480 in order not to use too much space on servers.

[preacher]

I found some fair 8'X2"X6" Red Cedar at Lowes in Mesquite/Garland right off IH 30 and Galloway.

[gerald]

Ah...I was able to download the design this time.

VERY nice design. This is a great looking hull. Got any more information on it? Where did you get it? It would be hard to improve on this as a C1. I was thinking the minimum width at the 4" waterline was measured 1' from the centerline either way and that a C1 had to be symetrical. I'm probably mistaken. I'll check on that. In any case--I am envious of this design.
Maybe something like this will by one of my next projects...

[Pogo]

Whoa Nelly, that IS a cool looking boat! If I could my hands on the plans I'd seriously consider building one -- Seriously!

If light weight is a concern with you, use WRC. It's the preferred boat building wood because it's light, strong, inexpensive, readily available, machines nicely, looks good .... what's not to like? Pine's a pain in many ways, I urge you to forget it except possibly for decorative accent strips.

Here's my sole canoe build so far: http://mysite.verizon.net/ngc704/merlin/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Weasle]

Pogo,

These are plans I drew up from scratch. If you have Auto cad, microstation or similar drawing software I could send you the file or I could send a full size pdf and you get it printed up at kinko's. My only requirement is If you do end up building it, I would want to take it for a test spin. Ive got to make sure that all the dimensions will pass USCA c1 requirements.

Gerald.
I am concerned about the 4" waterline width with in 1' of centerline. The wenonah j203 wings dont appear to be symetric. I may have to do some more studying. I would hate to go to the trouble of building this boat and not be able to enter with other C-1's. I still have illusions of being a good paddler some day.

J203.jpg (12.29 KiB) Viewed 10273 times

[gerald]

I'm also concerned about it because I am going to build a canoe that fits the usca C-1 specs. Icf is easy--only length is specified--no other requirements. You can even deck it completely. In Icf is looks like the only other rule is that kayak use double blade paddles, while canoe are single bladed.

For usca C-1 :
Competition Cruiser, C1 and C2 – maximum length of 18' 6", minimum width shall be 14-3/8 % of the length (0.1438) at the 4" water line measured within 12" fore and aft of the center of the canoe. Bow height shall be 15-1/2" and the minimum depth for the rest of the canoe shall be 11-1/2". Canoes can be made of any material, may have person-powered bailer, pump or siphon. No rudders. Must be able to float a 25-pound steel weight with the canoe submerged. Consult the Competition Rules for further information. Adult/Youth, Adult/Junior and all youth classes, including Junior must use exclusively this canoe.

I'm pretty sure I understand this:

C1, in addition to the maximum 36 inches decking allowance at bow and stern, an additional maximum of 18 inches combined thwart plus lunch counter depth (measured along the keel) is allowed. A maximum radius of 3 inches is allowed to tie in any thwart/lunch counter to the gunwales.

I think I'll see if I can get Lee Deviney to comment on this if you don't mind. Maybe he can clear it up for us.

You've done a good design. I'm gonna have study it more but I sure wouldn't mind getting more information about it if/when you get it.

[Weasle]

Reading the specs over and over, it seems like they mean that the 14 3/8% of total length has to be within that 2' zone of centerline. My design does pass that criteria. I guess the other question would be is the Bow has to be 15.5" is that measured from the lowest point on the boat or the line projected from bottom of bow. I have about 1.5 " of rocker in the boat. Can the bow measument be 14"? This design will hold 300 lbs at 4" waterline.

[gerald]

You may very well be right about the centerline measurement. As you say, and this has always confused me--designs like the j203 are distinctly swede form. The bow measurement, as I read it, is 15.5" from the lowest point of the hull. The actual boat minus the rocker would be 14" but if you set it on concrete and measure the bow it would be 15.5"...the rest of the gunwale would curve down to 11.5" (though mine will kick back up to 12" on the stern--probably).
I don't mean to concern you, but I've been kicking this around for awhile and the way the rules read confuse me a bit I guess. I want to get it right. I'm sure you do as well. You've certainly got a better start on your design than I've sketched out. If you get a definitive answer on these specifications don't hesitate to let me know. I want to have a boat ready before april.

[Weasle]

Well Gentlemen,

Remember this thread? Built a 1/4 scale of it and really liked the lines. Going full size now. Will cut out stations this weekend and start building. Hoping to have it ready for the 100mile race the Colorado River 100 in September. Will keep you posted.

[Norseman]

I saw it and it freaked me out when I saw gerald was replying, until I checked the date. Looks like an amazing boat. Good luck on the build.

[Weasle]

forms cut from 5/8" Ply, rounded the edges and sanded them down this weekend. Started putting all the forms together. Looks like a fast boat.

Thinking about putting a carving on the front.. What do you think?

[Iamdamoder]

I am always interested in a fast boat. IMO lose the lion

Did you long board the stations before you started stripping?

[Weasle]

Straight edged forms and found some small issues, Started stripping and found the tight radiuses difficult to get around. think it will be okay. Will post some pics of forms this afternoon. Using a mixture of Pine and WRC New experience torchering the wood like this. Kind of like it

[Woodbender]

Weasle...If the curves start getting real tight and giving you problems, rip your strips narrower. It will help. Check your PM. I sent you a message.

[Weasle]

Well definitely hooked with this type construction. First time stripping a boat and really enjoy it. I have finished everything below the 4" waterline. Happy with the results and learned alot in the process. Ordering Fiberglass supplies this week. Working on an accent strip with a piece of mahogany that I have. Wish my wife would be as happy about the build as I am. I could make her one

[neon14]

This is a cool looking build, really interested to see how this one turns out.

[Iamdamoder]

Very cool.

Bad news is you are wrapping up the fun part and you are entering sandpaper Hell.

[makenmend]

Very cool.

Bad news is you are wrapping up the fun part and you are entering sandpaper Hell.

Yes but it's good to see a beautiful swan emerge from the ugly duckling. And the pysical exercise has to be good for you (I keep telling myself)

MM

[Archer4life]

That is one awesome looking plan and the boat is looking that way too. Definitely gonna be watching the progress on this one. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the great work.

[Weasle]

Yep, went to harbor freight today and got necessary sanding supplies. Wax on wax off Danielson.

[Iamdamoder]

How is that sanding working out? The sanding part is often the best part of a build thread. Love to see the new pics.

[Weasle]

The accent strip has really slowed me down. Also went on vacation last week. Pictures coming soon.

[Weasle]

Sweat blood tears and curse words, I think Ive got it scraped and sanded with 80 grit. Here is a couple pics. Going to try to glass next weekend.The swan is emerging.
Bow Pic.

This decorative strip really slowed me down, but I am happy with the outcom

This picture gives you an idea of how much Tumblehome is in the hull. Tough stripping and gluing upside down. 16.5' Long and 28.5" wide.

[preacher]

Very nice!