Need trailer refinishing help...
- TKFStubb
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Need trailer refinishing help...
OK, its time to refinish the TKF trailer. I bought the sander today and will start taking the old varnish off tomorrow. I'd like to have the first coat on by Friday's FTU Demo, but first coat of WHAT?
You guys that do your own boats or furniture....
I want to keep the marine varnish look. I really don't care if it is varnish or not as long as its a yellowish clear finish. I'm going to put new fenders and yak carrier crossbars on it eventually, but the finish is starting to grow mushrooms out of the cracks...time to do something! Give me a plan of attack so I can get something on it quick!
You guys that do your own boats or furniture....
I want to keep the marine varnish look. I really don't care if it is varnish or not as long as its a yellowish clear finish. I'm going to put new fenders and yak carrier crossbars on it eventually, but the finish is starting to grow mushrooms out of the cracks...time to do something! Give me a plan of attack so I can get something on it quick!
TRAILER REFINISHING
Do you have a wood trailer? I never heard of putting varnish on a metal trailer. Check out the link below. I think he's over in your neighborhood somewhere.
http://www.ruststopshere.com/
http://www.ruststopshere.com/
- TKFStubb
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Here's the trailer...
Newt, I thought you'd seen the TKF trailer...here's a pic.
Its mostly marine plywood on a galvanized boat trailer frame.
Its mostly marine plywood on a galvanized boat trailer frame.
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Tom,
You know as well as I do that since your frame wasn't hot dipped in pieces when it was built that you will continue to have maintenance>
IE: sand blaster, wire brush, RustCure(PhosphoricAcid), & cold Galvinizing spray paint.....
I have built an number of darkroom sinks out of exterior plywood, put together with stainless screws and Weldwood professional carpenter's glue.
Then I painted the sink with JonesBlair's 2-part epoxy paint, but they don't make clear. I have alway used white. Absolutely fabulous stuff!
You could sand & strip back to good finish and find a clear epoxy product?
You might consider going the "brite work" method by using teak cleaner and teak oil? (reminds me of why I sold my sailboat!)
You know as well as I do that since your frame wasn't hot dipped in pieces when it was built that you will continue to have maintenance>
IE: sand blaster, wire brush, RustCure(PhosphoricAcid), & cold Galvinizing spray paint.....
I have built an number of darkroom sinks out of exterior plywood, put together with stainless screws and Weldwood professional carpenter's glue.
Then I painted the sink with JonesBlair's 2-part epoxy paint, but they don't make clear. I have alway used white. Absolutely fabulous stuff!
You could sand & strip back to good finish and find a clear epoxy product?
You might consider going the "brite work" method by using teak cleaner and teak oil? (reminds me of why I sold my sailboat!)
Where you going to put the new T140 on the trailer?
Where you going to put the new T140(s) on the trailer?
Last edited by JimD on Wed Sep 17, 2003 6:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Yak Trailer
Tom, I remember you had your Yaks on a trailer at the FOF event. However, I've slept since then & really didn't remember what it looked like.
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Finish
An old timer who I trust tole me to pour gasoline on the trailer and set her afire.
Then Por-15 it.
Prime with rustoleum, and finish with whatever.
Maintenance on anything but aluminum will always be a chore, just keep it simple so as to do the maintenance thing every other year.
Then Por-15 it.
Prime with rustoleum, and finish with whatever.
Maintenance on anything but aluminum will always be a chore, just keep it simple so as to do the maintenance thing every other year.
Tom,
If you want to revarnish the wood. Use Cetol. You can get it at West Marine. Unless your old varnish is Cetol, you will have to get the old stuff off. Do at least 3 coats with 24 hours between coats. You don't have to sand between coats. It's a pain to do the first time, but maintenance is a breeze. Just lightly sand and reapply one coat every year.
If you want to revarnish the wood. Use Cetol. You can get it at West Marine. Unless your old varnish is Cetol, you will have to get the old stuff off. Do at least 3 coats with 24 hours between coats. You don't have to sand between coats. It's a pain to do the first time, but maintenance is a breeze. Just lightly sand and reapply one coat every year.
- M-D
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Tom,
If you use a spar varnish, one having a phenolic resin, you will get the desired amber colour. This type of varnish isn't quite as durable, nor waterproof as is a polyurethane, but it does have a natural UV inhibition. Poly varnishes require the addition of UV inhibitors and scavengers, and these are in a ratio unique to the consistency of the product as it comes from the can. If you thin the product, you've defeated this. Poly's also have a bluish tint, though some have added to them an amber colour. Epoxies typically do not have any UV protection, and require a top coat of spar varnish. Check to make sure of the product you intend to use.
Usually, you can sand the old finish completely, so that the surface is scuffed, then re-apply your finish of choice. A Scotch-Brite wheel, such as on a surface grinder, is very good for this, as it not only will scuff the surface, but gives a static charge that will cause the new finish to adhere better. Wipe the old surface completely with denatured alcohol to remove any grease, then scuff with the Scotch-Brite. DO NOT wipe again with anything, but blow off the surface with air, the apply the first coat of new finish. You can sand out any of the nibs after this coat dries, or just add the second coat to cover them, and remove them prior to the third coat. For re-coat times, follow the directions on the can. Most people never read them, then wonder why they had a bad experience.
M-D
If you use a spar varnish, one having a phenolic resin, you will get the desired amber colour. This type of varnish isn't quite as durable, nor waterproof as is a polyurethane, but it does have a natural UV inhibition. Poly varnishes require the addition of UV inhibitors and scavengers, and these are in a ratio unique to the consistency of the product as it comes from the can. If you thin the product, you've defeated this. Poly's also have a bluish tint, though some have added to them an amber colour. Epoxies typically do not have any UV protection, and require a top coat of spar varnish. Check to make sure of the product you intend to use.
Usually, you can sand the old finish completely, so that the surface is scuffed, then re-apply your finish of choice. A Scotch-Brite wheel, such as on a surface grinder, is very good for this, as it not only will scuff the surface, but gives a static charge that will cause the new finish to adhere better. Wipe the old surface completely with denatured alcohol to remove any grease, then scuff with the Scotch-Brite. DO NOT wipe again with anything, but blow off the surface with air, the apply the first coat of new finish. You can sand out any of the nibs after this coat dries, or just add the second coat to cover them, and remove them prior to the third coat. For re-coat times, follow the directions on the can. Most people never read them, then wonder why they had a bad experience.
M-D
Get Clay to help.
Maybe Clay is as good on Trailers as he is on computers.
Tom while you are at it Can you get him a fishing pass? I think that He has been fishing as much as I have been lately with the arm.
Tom while you are at it Can you get him a fishing pass? I think that He has been fishing as much as I have been lately with the arm.