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today i got done cutting out my kayak and i layed out the pieces and there are gaps like 3/16 inch in some places....is this normal??? my jig saw sucks, so that might be the reason....but how can i fix this without too much trouble down the line.....thanks

well let me start by saying I haven't built a stitch and glue boat yet, but I did stay in a holiday inn last night so here goes. Actually after reading all these post for a year or so 3/16 sounds kinda big. If it was me and it's possible I'd try to sand the pieces to fit

I just got done building a "Wadefish" an 8 panel,it was my first boat and i can say if it is more than 2-3 cm's it will make a differance!!! I would tape or screw panels together and sand with a beltsander so everything matchs better Also there is some really good guys on http://www.jemwatercraft.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; that can help you The main thing is that all your panels must match the other side,if there is just a large gap in one spot it can be filleted and glassed over. I hope this help's This is why some people cut outside the line's and sand with a belt-sander to the lines. This could also be caused by not having a good peice of trim board to make your bowed lines

Mike

Light Keeper's Kid, the plans say to sand the pieces so they match...i was just wondering if that gap was a little big......those gaps are distance from one gap to anther with panels joined not just on a stright line....so actually the gaps are like 1/8 inch.

but ill try the sanding thing

In some plans they use 1/8" spacers,so that's no problem at all Sorry didn't get back to you sooner,was out at the TKF Boat Builder Round-up with all the great boat builder Guru's And it was a great time and lot's of Great boat's of all type's

Mike

Rule of Thumb: It's a lot easier to take a little off than put a little back on.

Moral of the Story: Cut outside the lines with yer jig saw, then work to 'em with a plane, rasp, sandpaper block, belt sander, or whatever you feel most in control of and comfortable with (I prefer the block plane). Gerald likes to say how he can cut accurately enough with his saber saw (jigsaw, same thing), but please let's remember that he's been doing it for 300 years. Gerald is a suspicious character, and bears watching.

Actually I cut the line or either side of the line as the case may be. Then I look down the edge of the cut. If there are any obvious humps I take them out with a block plane. Come on guys! You're building boats--not pianos...

Pogo wrote:Gerald is a suspicious character, and bears watching.

Bears shouldn't be afraid of Gerald, but Squirrels are another story entirely!!!

True.

It's also true that I'm still at odds with Gerald over this super-accurate jigsaw cutting action. And don't tell ME we're not making furniture here, or I'll have a whole TRUCKLOAD of squirrels delivered -- directly to your BEDROOM!!

Seriously . . . I'm not so sure I'd want to be giving rank noobs that kinda advice, what with the price of okoume and all. Also, I hope recent events have us all fairly comfortable that nobody means to be unpleasant or argumentive; but rather, we wish to discuss all these myriad little detail things and try to better understand one another. DANG, that was FUN.

Ok. 3/16" is too big as a general rule. I generally stick with about 1/16" or closer and don't angle the cuts to fit. 1/8" I'll shake my head and go on. Plane the humps. If it looks fair it's ok. After wiring the hull together look at it. If you see a hump or dip loosen or tighten as needed. If you THEN get a wider gap--just go on. Nobody will know it.
That's my advice for noobies...