My 2 cents
Just about commercial glue (Titebond, Elmers Wood Glue, Urac, animal glue, CA, etc, - not including Gorilla Glue as I've never used it) is much stronger that the wood it is glued to, assuming proper wood prep. In my bow making days I read dozens of articles about the properties of glues and their relative strength. And at the end of the day, under controlled conditions, they were all about the same, or at least within the repeatability of the test. If something breaks, it will be the wood tearing away from the glue, not the glue giving out. Having said that, assuming the bonding properties are all equal, you have two or three or four...factors that come in to play. 1) Set up time - As far as Titebond, TB1 is the fastest, down to TB3 which is the slowest. I like TB3 when I need a lot of time to torture a strip into place as I don't want it to dry before I have everything set. If it is something straight forward I like TB1 or 2. I don't care if it's waterproof or not as it will all be sealed with epoxy. 2) Gap filling properties (almost goes hand in hand with viscosity) - here's where I think glues like epoxy w/filler and Urac come in. Wood glue doesn't fill gaps very well because it shrinks (more on that later), so I generally don't use it in applications where there isn't a tight fit. Which brings us to the other property - 3) Clean up and ease of use - everybody likes water soluble adhesives because they are easy to clean up. I hate getting out the solvents to clean up epoxy. 4) Adhesive prep (we won't even get into animal glue!) - mixing - epoxy is easy, but you still go through a cup and mixer, and then there are glues like Urac, a two part resin - powder and liquid, which are measured out by weight (good thing I work in a lab
) but nothing is easier that opening the cap and dumping some glue out. - Getting back to glue shrinkage - two part epoxies and other catalytic glues undergo very little to no shrinkage (I can't stop thinking about that Seinfeld episode
) due to the fact that the very nature of how the system works. You've got molecule A bonding with molecule B in an exothermic reaction and very little evaporation do to solvent content. Wood glue type adhesives have to be in contact with air to initiate the evaporation of the solvent for the glue to set, that's where the shrink factor comes in
5) Other properties - wood prep - some glues tell you to "rough up" the surface with sandpaper or something like that to allow for a better physical bond. Another factor to consider is joint starvation, if the joint is clamped too tightly you stand the risk of squeezing all glue out, that's where having the scratches on the surface come in as well, to allow little pockets of glue to remain. I would use a toothing plane to prepare the gluing surface on the bows when gluing bamboo on to the belly wood, and trust me, I used lots of clamps and lots of love on them, and never had a failure caused by delamination, and those things are bending and flexing quite a bit during use. 6) And last but not least, or what I can think of anyway is glue slipperyness, for lack of a better term. Some glues, like wood glue, will cause the two pieces of wood to slide all over the place as you are trying to clamp them. Others, like Urac, tend to be easier to work with.
Thats about all I can think of