I THINK I AM DONE RIGGING MY T140

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NaplesJohn
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I THINK I AM DONE RIGGING MY T140

Post by NaplesJohn »

It is done, and I can still move it:-)

Topped it off with a light weight/low profile anchor & drift chute trolley system. I used two outrigger pulleys from Boater World. Box has been on the boat for a while. Also recently added the all-around white light after a near miss in the fog.

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Post by Cyber Yak »

Nice job on the rigging ! ! !



:D :D :D
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Post by Hookem »

I have my light abou the same height as yours....I have always been told that the light had to be above your head...I dont know if it dose just wanted to warn ya :D
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Post by Red Hunter »

Nice rig.
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Post by Harold Ray »

I have always been told that the light had to be above your head...I dont know if it dose just wanted to warn ya


You need a higher 360 degree light to be legal at night, I can't remember just how high, but above your head.
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Post by Hookem »

Harold Ray wrote:
I have always been told that the light had to be above your head...I dont know if it dose just wanted to warn ya


You need a higher 360 degree light to be legal at night, I can't remember just how high, but above your head.



crap looks like i need to wreck the garage making more stuff for my yak......here we go again.... :D
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Post by NaplesJohn »

hookem wrote:I have my light abou the same height as yours....I have always been told that the light had to be above your head...I dont know if it dose just wanted to warn ya :D


Buy a construction hard hat and stick it on top. Also provide head protection for the airboat collision!!! :lol:
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Post by Z~MAN »

Hey NaplesJohn..

what type of rope did you use for the anchor trolly? what was the tinsile strength (load capacity)?

great details... great yak...
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Post by NaplesJohn »

zamarripa.piii wrote:Hey NaplesJohn..

what type of rope did you use for the anchor trolly? what was the tinsile strength (load capacity)?

great details... great yak...


Not sure, it is a braided cordage (also known as seine twine) also available at Boaters World. Runs perfect through the ourigger block.

http://www.cudjoesales.com/catalog/twine.html
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Have you tried it out?

Post by JimD »

Looks good. Long ago when the anchor trolley came out there was some discussion on how far to the ends of the kayak do you need to go.

Tkf Tom had one on his Brand new 120 that went thru the rope handles and went on both sides of the kayak. This would not work on some longer kayaks like a 160.

Peeshnuck went more toward the front and used a trolley on one side.

The discussion was just how many times do you need to anchor straight into or down wind vs being at an angle into the current.

Let us know how your set up handles a ripping SLP type of current.
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Re: Have you tried it out?

Post by NaplesJohn »

JimD wrote:Looks good. Long ago when the anchor trolley came out there was some discussion on how far to the ends of the kayak do you need to go.

Tkf Tom had one on his Brand new 120 that went thru the rope handles and went on both sides of the kayak. This would not work on some longer kayaks like a 160.

Peeshnuck went more toward the front and used a trolley on one side.

The discussion was just how many times do you need to anchor straight into or down wind vs being at an angle into the current.

Let us know how your set up handles a ripping SLP type of current.


Have not had in a super strong "flush", though in moderate type current it does well, and have used it w/ a drift sock in windy conditions and was fine.
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Post by NaplesJohn »

Harold Ray wrote:
I have always been told that the light had to be above your head...I dont know if it dose just wanted to warn ya


You need a higher 360 degree light to be legal at night, I can't remember just how high, but above your head.


Solved the problem-
Just finished this over the weekend. The mast is 30" of sch 40 PVC, took a 1" cap and threaded a metric (yup the innovation lights are threaded metric) stainless bolt from Lowes through the cap. Used a two part epoxy putty to secure the bolt on the inside of the cap. PVC gluded cap on.

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The mast fits into a 1.25" PVC rod holder that is attached on each inside corner of the imitation (HEB) crate.
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Post by Z~MAN »

great pic...of the imitation HEB crate.. do you have a matchin one for the yellow ride! :D that is a great way to get the light were it needs to be.

did you use a cutting board for the crate lid?

do you have or posted on how you made it.. I'm interested..

keep your ideas coming...
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Post by Cyber Yak »

I DON'T THINK YOU'RE DONE YET . . .



:D :D :D
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Post by NaplesJohn »

zamarripa.piii wrote:great pic...of the imitation HEB crate.. do you have a matchin one for the yellow ride! :D that is a great way to get the light were it needs to be.

did you use a cutting board for the crate lid?

do you have or posted on how you made it.. I'm interested..

keep your ideas coming...


Actually I had started to make two matching crates, one for the T140 (red) and one for the T120. Then I found out that the tank well in the 120 is actually a hair narrower...no joy as the HEB crate won't fit. Having decided that I would probably get arrested if I borrowed two crates from a convenience store, I just ordered two "real" ones. When I get them I will step by step build a pair of non-HEB crates. Regarding the cover, yes it is that plastic cutting board material. Works great. Stay tuned for the next installment of "cool garage stuff for the yak" :lol:
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Post by Z~MAN »

:D looking forward to that :D
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Post by NaplesJohn »

Cyber Yak wrote:I DON'T THINK YOU'RE DONE YET . . .



:D :D :D



Yikes, what will I do buy a T160 to go with the 120 and 140 :idea: You are probably right, though it is good fun doing this in the "off season". Maybe a show like "Flip this House" but for yaks...fix em up and sell them, or maybe like Orange County Choppers..."Nueces County Yaks" :idea: :idea: :idea:
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Post by NaplesJohn »

Cyber Yak wrote:I DON'T THINK YOU'RE DONE YET . . .



:D :D :D



Yikes, what will I do buy a T160 to go with the 120 and 140 :idea: You are probably right, though it is good fun doing this in the "off season". Maybe a show like "Flip this House" but for yaks...fix em up and sell them, or maybe like Orange County Choppers..."Nueces County Yaks" :idea: :idea: :idea:
Last edited by NaplesJohn on Tue Jan 30, 2007 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Z~MAN »

a double post :shock:
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Post by NaplesJohn »

zamarripa.piii wrote:a double post :shock:


I stuttered :oops:
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Post by Z~MAN »

NaplesJohn..

can you tell me why you have shock cording to your rigging of the anchor? I have seen several different trolly and they all seem to have the shock cord...

just askin..since I do not have them on mine ...and want to know if I need to ... is it saftey?
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Post by Harold Ray »

Thanks for posting the pictures; that looks great.

Ray
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Post by Harold Ray »

can you tell me why you have shock cording to your rigging of the anchor? I have seen several different trolly and they all seem to have the shock cord...


It is a safety issue. Having the shock cord allows your kayak to ride with the waves more easily as they pass by, expanding and retracting each time as the motion pulls or pushes your yak against the pressure of the anchor seated on the bottom of the bay.

Without a shock cord each time a wave passed, you would be yanked one way or another as the waves pulled or pushed and a tight, non-elastic rope extended between your kayak and the anchor which is held firmly in the sand, rock or whatever covers the seabed several feet down.

I'm no expert; I have just read this many times here. Maybe others will offer more.

Ray
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Post by Z~MAN »

Makes purfect sense... I will have to add the the shock cording..

thanx for the info..
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