Non-flat hull bottom and depth finder transducer mounting

[mikefos]

I was leaning towards installing a PVC cleanout assembly for the transducer installation in the front hatch when I decide upon a depth finder, then I went and looked inside by hull and there is no purely flat surface to mount it cleanly. I would like to do as neat a job as possible w/ Goop or other adhesive, and keep it to a minimum. Is there some relatively simple way to customize the PVC bottom surface of the cleanout so it fits my hull bottom fairly tight before adhesive, or is there a better way to mount the transducer in-hull for a non-flat hull surface?

Also, with a PVC cleanout installation such as this, does it develop leaks after awhile due to throwing it up on the car upside down all the time for hauling, or temperature fluctuations?

I have a Tarpon 120.

Thx.

[stag3]

I tried the PVC route and decided against it---didn't like the idea of putting water inside the hull. This just doesn't sound right to me.

I have a T140 and used epoxy to hold the TD in place. BUT, you MUST use epoxy that retains some flexibility. If you use regular epoxy, the hull flex will break the epoxy loose from the hull. Ditto for the PVC.

I mounted my TD just behind the seat, under the rear hatch opening. I don't know if this is perfectly flat, but the epoxy seems to correct for minor hull curves.

Stag3

[FishingSETX]

im working on mine right now (waiting on the goop to dry). I used a dremel tool to shape the cleanout to sit my hull. It took a little playing with, but it fit relatively snug after I was done. just go slow and take your time. cut a little bit and test fit, then cut a little more where needed and test fit again (I think I did this about 10 times before I got the fit I wanted. A tip I learned from watching my father in law do rain gutter is wet your finger before you try to smooth out the silicone, goop, ect. it really makes a good bead. im sure you could use just about anything to cut the cleanout to fit. also im thinking of trying vasaline instead of water to fill the cleanout. Ill let you know how it goes

[tarpy kayak]

The best transmission medium I've found to work in my PVC cleanout style mount is ultrasound gel mixed to a consistancy of snot using water. Doesn't evaporate or splash out. Sensitivity is as good as in the water style mount (except temperature.... ALL inside mounts read temperature waaaay to slow and lose accuracy).

[mikefos]

Hey Stag3,

What brand/type of epoxy did you use for your T140, and how long has it been working for you?

I did entertain the thought of possibly putting a transducer in the back hatch on my T120, as it is relatively flat there (probably the flattest part of the hull buttom), but the hatch opening seemed too small to do the PVC thing at that location. I never use that hatch anyway.

Thx,

Mike

[Fla-Fish]

The only problem with PVC cleanout assembly for the transducer installation is hull flex over time will work it loose.
And if you carry your kayak on top of a rack be carefull of where
the yak sits on the crossbars. If the PVC sits on a crossbar it will work loose. The best way I have found and i have used it in 4 yaks W/Out
any problems if closed cell foam with a tight fitting hole for the TD
glued down with Marine Goop. My latest mount is inside my FnD up on the side of the bottom hull. So I can slide my rods inside the center. Not flat it has a slight angle but have not had any problems with readings. 6mths and going strong.

Full details w/pic's are here.


http://texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56730&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

[stag3]

Hey Stag3,

What brand/type of epoxy did you use for your T140, and how long has it been working for you?

I did entertain the thought of possibly putting a transducer in the back hatch on my T120, as it is relatively flat there (probably the flattest part of the hull buttom), but the hatch opening seemed too small to do the PVC thing at that location. I never use that hatch anyway.

Thx,

Mike

Mike,

I used Flex Set made byMarine tex (www.marinetex.com). My procedure...
1) clean the area of the hull with acetone. 2) make sure the hull is dry 3) mix the epoxy slowly so you do not make bubbles 4) carefully put the epoxy in the center of the TD, avoid air bubbles 5) invert the TD and press onto the hull.

With the epoxy in the center of the TD it will spred out when pressed down and fill any gaps. My epoxy looked like an inverted cone on the TD and I used a bit more than I needed. IMO, don't spread the epoxy over the TD...too big a risk of an air pocket. Also IMO do not try to put the epoxy on the hull and then set the TD.

I got the Flex set at Boaters World on the Gulf Frwy..It costs me something north of $14. Yea, I got taken but I needed to get the TD set that day. I'm sure you can find it at a lower price.

Oh yea, one more thing...make sure you know exactly where to set the TD before mixing the epoxy--you only have about 15 minutes.

Stag3