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Just now getting back into kayak fishing. What adhesive do y'all recommend for mounting a fish finder transducer to the inside of your kayak hull?
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By Neumie
The important thing with mounting in hull is to make sure you don't have air bubbles in the glue between the transducer and hull; it'll cause bad readings. If your unit has a temperature reading it'll be slightly off as well; bubbles or not.

Oh, and I used Lexel as well when I installed my transducer 10 years ago. When I removed it this past summer it took quite a bit of hard prying to get it out.
By Yak Dog
I used a epoxy to mount one in my old Malibu , the previous post was correct . It is very important to get all the air bubbles out between the trans. and hull. Good luck on the mount and you’ll love Summerville I plan on doing much more freshwater this year maybe I’ll see you out there. Luckily my current yak has port for a transducer mount I may put one on but undecided still.
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By Kalait
How do you guys haul your yak after the shoot through the hull transducer is in? I hauled my kayak Keel up and had to remove my transducer about every 2 years and reglue due to air bubbles. With my new depth finder I am going over the side, need to go deeper though.
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By Kirk B.
Keel up. Lexel is flexible enough that I haven't had issues this past year and a half.
Inflexibility is one of the reasons I chose against epoxy as a bedding material. Loading my boat on a ladder rack by myself is pretty rough on the bottom of my kayak, at least as far as the bottom flexing during the process.

Kirk B.
By Yak Dog
When I had the Malibu I would just put it in the back of my truck never had an issue . I have a trident 15 now without a finder unit . I do plan on getting one just can’t right now. I’ll try to post a pic of how I haul it but this site usually doesn’t let me post pics
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Thanks for all the replies. YAK DOG : I live right on the lake and I plan on being out there a lot. Don't even have to load my kayak, just strap the cart on it and roll it down to water.
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By Kirk B.
OVERRUN wrote:Thanks for all the replies. YAK DOG : I live right on the lake and I plan on being out there a lot. Don't even have to load my kayak, just strap the cart on it and roll it down to water.
I hate you. Just thought you should know.

Kirk B.
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By niswanger
Duct seal, about $3.50 for a pound block of it in the electrical dept. of HD or Lowes. I roll and press out first a 1/4" layer and press that flat against the hull...I use a heat gun to promote a little more "fluididity" but not much. I also warm the x-ducer up a bit, again not much. Press the x-ducer into the 1/4" flat layer. This is all in an effort to keep air between the hull, first layer of duct seal, the duct seal and x-ducer. Then I build up more around the perimeter. My screen is clean w/o any aberrations to speak of...still works great after 2 years of use.
By impulse
Does epoxy even stick to polyethylene?

I use a polyethylene table to make my 12V submersible green lights, which are encapsulated in epoxy. When I'm done, I let any spilled epoxy blobs set up and scrape them off the table. It takes very little pressure to break the bond between epoxy and the PE. (If it's epoxy that hasn't set, I use 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol.)

My concern is that the epoxy will stick to the transducer and not to the poly. That makes a do-over impossible. At least with Clear Seal or silicone, I can scrape the transducer clean if I mess it up.

On a related note, has anyone ever tested a transducer before and after to see how much it attenuates when mounted thru the hull, as opposed to outside? "Clear readings" are a subjective thing...
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