Great White trolling motor
Great White trolling motor
Who has transformed a Great White trolling motor to fit there Kayak? I've seen tons of regular trolling motor's done but, not one that will hold up in the salt water. Also, i'm no electrician. So I need all the help I can get. Thanks in advance.
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
Have no idea what great white is...(update) I looked it up...Motorguide has the Great White series.
I am using a Watersnake 24lb TM and it has served me well for over a year. It fits through the Hobie mirage drive access. Hobie's can take up to a 30 lb depending on the motor diameter. No more than 3 3/16".
Most TM's will tell you if it is salt water compatible. Since all TM's are sealed to prevent water from getting in most are able to be used in saltwater as well as fresh. If there is hardware that may rust on the TM then it will not be saltwater proof. That is where the saltwater ability is used to sell these TM's.
Just make sure to do regular maintenance by washing it off with freshwater after each use and oil spindle and torque pin to keep them from rusting or sticking.
I am going to buy a new 30 lb TM from Bass Pro next month to give me a little bit more power. I changed the standard prop that comes with the TM to an all aluminum prop I bought off EBay. I made a new nut to attach it and it works great over shell, rock, sand or other debris without breaking the prop. It simply stops the blade from turning if it hits something. I shut it off, pull it up, get off the shallows and reinsert and go. I must have bought 5 replacement props before I decided to make my own that wont destruct. You can see in the pictures how much shell has scratched it up and caused damage to plastic props. A prop cage will only slow the speed down as water is a bit restricted with the cage slowing you at least .5 mph slower.
I also made a voltage regulator with forward and reverse and a dial to set the speed. You can buy them from EBay as well for about $15. You then run a wire from box to battery and wires to TM and plug it in and go! Easier to dial in the correct speed for trolling or moving around.
If you want the bigger "great white" you may need to review YouTube videos on ways to mount it. I have actually seen a Hobie PA 14 with a Minn Kota Ultrex that deploys remotely and operated remotely by hand. It is mounted just like on a boat on the bow and is stowed in the up position until ready for use. But I bet it weighs the front end down a bunch!
I am using a 105 Amp Hour sealed AGM battery for my TM and it weighs 75 lbs so that is more weight added tot he kayak along with the TM. I went with this smaller 15 lb TM to save on weight and maximize my distance using the TM.
I am using a Watersnake 24lb TM and it has served me well for over a year. It fits through the Hobie mirage drive access. Hobie's can take up to a 30 lb depending on the motor diameter. No more than 3 3/16".
Most TM's will tell you if it is salt water compatible. Since all TM's are sealed to prevent water from getting in most are able to be used in saltwater as well as fresh. If there is hardware that may rust on the TM then it will not be saltwater proof. That is where the saltwater ability is used to sell these TM's.
Just make sure to do regular maintenance by washing it off with freshwater after each use and oil spindle and torque pin to keep them from rusting or sticking.
I am going to buy a new 30 lb TM from Bass Pro next month to give me a little bit more power. I changed the standard prop that comes with the TM to an all aluminum prop I bought off EBay. I made a new nut to attach it and it works great over shell, rock, sand or other debris without breaking the prop. It simply stops the blade from turning if it hits something. I shut it off, pull it up, get off the shallows and reinsert and go. I must have bought 5 replacement props before I decided to make my own that wont destruct. You can see in the pictures how much shell has scratched it up and caused damage to plastic props. A prop cage will only slow the speed down as water is a bit restricted with the cage slowing you at least .5 mph slower.
I also made a voltage regulator with forward and reverse and a dial to set the speed. You can buy them from EBay as well for about $15. You then run a wire from box to battery and wires to TM and plug it in and go! Easier to dial in the correct speed for trolling or moving around.
If you want the bigger "great white" you may need to review YouTube videos on ways to mount it. I have actually seen a Hobie PA 14 with a Minn Kota Ultrex that deploys remotely and operated remotely by hand. It is mounted just like on a boat on the bow and is stowed in the up position until ready for use. But I bet it weighs the front end down a bunch!
I am using a 105 Amp Hour sealed AGM battery for my TM and it weighs 75 lbs so that is more weight added tot he kayak along with the TM. I went with this smaller 15 lb TM to save on weight and maximize my distance using the TM.
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Re: Great White trolling motor
kickingback wrote:Have no idea what great white is...(update) I looked it up...Motorguide has the Great White series.
I am using a Watersnake 24lb TM and it has served me well for over a year. It fits through the Hobie mirage drive access. Hobie's can take up to a 30 lb depending on the motor diameter. No more than 3 3/16".
Most TM's will tell you if it is salt water compatible. Since all TM's are sealed to prevent water from getting in most are able to be used in saltwater as well as fresh. If there is hardware that may rust on the TM then it will not be saltwater proof. That is where the saltwater ability is used to sell these TM's.
Just make sure to do regular maintenance by washing it off with freshwater after each use and oil spindle and torque pin to keep them from rusting or sticking.
I am going to buy a new 30 lb TM from Bass Pro next month to give me a little bit more power. I changed the standard prop that comes with the TM to an all aluminum prop I bought off EBay. I made a new nut to attach it and it works great over shell, rock, sand or other debris without breaking the prop. It simply stops the blade from turning if it hits something. I shut it off, pull it up, get off the shallows and reinsert and go. I must have bought 5 replacement props before I decided to make my own that wont destruct. You can see in the pictures how much shell has scratched it up and caused damage to plastic props. A prop cage will only slow the speed down as water is a bit restricted with the cage slowing you at least .5 mph slower.
I also made a voltage regulator with forward and reverse and a dial to set the speed. You can buy them from EBay as well for about $15. You then run a wire from box to battery and wires to TM and plug it in and go! Easier to dial in the correct speed for trolling or moving around.
If you want the bigger "great white" you may need to review YouTube videos on ways to mount it. I have actually seen a Hobie PA 14 with a Minn Kota Ultrex that deploys remotely and operated remotely by hand. It is mounted just like on a boat on the bow and is stowed in the up position until ready for use. But I bet it weighs the front end down a bunch!
I am using a 105 Amp Hour sealed AGM battery for my TM and it weighs 75 lbs so that is more weight added tot he kayak along with the TM. I went with this smaller 15 lb TM to save on weight and maximize my distance using the TM.
Hi Kickingback!
I just got this built this week and plan to try it out tomorrow in SLP. Could you share the link for the aluminum propeller and the voltage regulator?
Thanks
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- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
Looks great!!!
Here is a link to a 40 amp unit on Amazon. You may get it faster than from EBay which I ordered from originally coming from china. If you can wait order on EBay cheaper. It's the same. just need to make sure you have more amps than the motor which is usually the lb rating in amps.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller- ... Z9AF9TVZ0V
I bought a "Lock-n-Lock" box from Amazon to house the unit to keep it dry. These boxes are great for saltwater use as they keep everything inside dry! You will need to cut holes for the wires and switches as well. Use goop around all openings you make after putting in the unit and wires. Goop will come off later from the box if you pull hard if needed but it seals great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IP ... UTF8&psc=1
Wires need to be at least 18 gauge but go with 14 or 12 if you can. Buy the wire from hardware store too. Check wire for rated watts or amps max to keep the wires from overheating and melting.
As for the Aluminum prop do a search on EBay... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... r&_sacat=0
and find one that looks like one you can get to work for you. Mine looks like this and I think is the same model.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-EVANS-NO-2 ... US&vxp=mtr
You may have to grind the prop back down to get it to fit on shaft so torque pin can sit in groove. You will see when the prop arrives. Just grind it and balance it to make sure of the wobble and stuff.
The hole for the shaft is bigger than the shaft so I used a bolt I cut and drilled to fit. I bought a stainless steel bolt from Home Depot and cut it down to about an inch long and then drilled and tapped the hole to screw it to the TM shaft. You will need a drill press to get the hole straight so your prop does not wobble causing wear, vibration, noise and slower movement. If you don't know the diameter of the shaft just use a caliper or your eye and get a drill the right size and then get a tap set and put the threads in. Use a lock washer for the blot and it will stay for ever! You can barely make out the head in my picture. You can buy a piece f stainless steel rod at the hardware store for the torque pin and cut to size a few and have a couple for spares in case they rust or bend. Mine have just bent and I replaced easily.
The speed box is nice to dial in a set speed and to be able to flip to reverse quickly and quietly is great.
Here is a link to a 40 amp unit on Amazon. You may get it faster than from EBay which I ordered from originally coming from china. If you can wait order on EBay cheaper. It's the same. just need to make sure you have more amps than the motor which is usually the lb rating in amps.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller- ... Z9AF9TVZ0V
I bought a "Lock-n-Lock" box from Amazon to house the unit to keep it dry. These boxes are great for saltwater use as they keep everything inside dry! You will need to cut holes for the wires and switches as well. Use goop around all openings you make after putting in the unit and wires. Goop will come off later from the box if you pull hard if needed but it seals great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IP ... UTF8&psc=1
Wires need to be at least 18 gauge but go with 14 or 12 if you can. Buy the wire from hardware store too. Check wire for rated watts or amps max to keep the wires from overheating and melting.
As for the Aluminum prop do a search on EBay... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... r&_sacat=0
and find one that looks like one you can get to work for you. Mine looks like this and I think is the same model.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-EVANS-NO-2 ... US&vxp=mtr
You may have to grind the prop back down to get it to fit on shaft so torque pin can sit in groove. You will see when the prop arrives. Just grind it and balance it to make sure of the wobble and stuff.
The hole for the shaft is bigger than the shaft so I used a bolt I cut and drilled to fit. I bought a stainless steel bolt from Home Depot and cut it down to about an inch long and then drilled and tapped the hole to screw it to the TM shaft. You will need a drill press to get the hole straight so your prop does not wobble causing wear, vibration, noise and slower movement. If you don't know the diameter of the shaft just use a caliper or your eye and get a drill the right size and then get a tap set and put the threads in. Use a lock washer for the blot and it will stay for ever! You can barely make out the head in my picture. You can buy a piece f stainless steel rod at the hardware store for the torque pin and cut to size a few and have a couple for spares in case they rust or bend. Mine have just bent and I replaced easily.
The speed box is nice to dial in a set speed and to be able to flip to reverse quickly and quietly is great.
Re: Great White trolling motor
Both setups look really nice. I'd like to hear how the Watersnake motor holds up to the saltwater. Saltwater just destroys everything. Someone told me they use Corrosion X on there trolling motor. Not sure how well it works.
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
I've had my 24 lb Watersnake for over a year now. In fact it just died on me yesterday. I always clean and keep it maintained. The motor mad a loud screeching noise and seized up. I opened the motor last night and it was clean and dry inside with not one bit of corrosion or damage. Looking closer after pulling the stater I found the magnetic shield was being rubbed by the fast moving spindle and it caused the shavings to cause it to hang up.
This TM was used a lot! BTB, shell, rocks, fresh and salt and it has been a horse! Time to buy a new one. $99 at Bass pro for a 30 lb. Going to buy it tomorrow and just replace in same mirage cassette and swap over the prop.
The Bass Pro TM is not rated for salt water but that only means the unit's fin is not coated more heavily to prevent corrosion as well as the small parts are stainless and rust proof. Since I pull most hardware off it is not an issue. I also will use PLASTI DIP® to caot the unit to give it a better corrosion coating.
I always rinse it after each trip so this one should last over a year as well.
This TM was used a lot! BTB, shell, rocks, fresh and salt and it has been a horse! Time to buy a new one. $99 at Bass pro for a 30 lb. Going to buy it tomorrow and just replace in same mirage cassette and swap over the prop.
The Bass Pro TM is not rated for salt water but that only means the unit's fin is not coated more heavily to prevent corrosion as well as the small parts are stainless and rust proof. Since I pull most hardware off it is not an issue. I also will use PLASTI DIP® to caot the unit to give it a better corrosion coating.
I always rinse it after each trip so this one should last over a year as well.
Re: Great White trolling motor
Sounds like you've got it down to a science.
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Re: Great White trolling motor
Thanks Charlie for the details instruction. Definitely need a better propeller.
Tried the motor out today at SLP. The good news: This little motor can fight the SLP tidal currents. Running around for almost 3-4 hours. Against the tide, the speed was around 2mph. On the way back, with the tide, speed was around 4-4.5mph. The bad news: May have to carry a bigger battery. Disappointed with the battery, 55ah was almost drained completely. Now I know why you chose the 100 lbs battery, Charlie.
I used plastic cutting board with galvanized 10 inches screws to keep the flimsy Hobie cassette plug together.
Got a few specs along the way!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tried the motor out today at SLP. The good news: This little motor can fight the SLP tidal currents. Running around for almost 3-4 hours. Against the tide, the speed was around 2mph. On the way back, with the tide, speed was around 4-4.5mph. The bad news: May have to carry a bigger battery. Disappointed with the battery, 55ah was almost drained completely. Now I know why you chose the 100 lbs battery, Charlie.
I used plastic cutting board with galvanized 10 inches screws to keep the flimsy Hobie cassette plug together.
Got a few specs along the way!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Re: Great White trolling motor
Kicking back, have you tried screwing a zinc annode to the body to control corrosion? It's a trick they use on the big cruisers to keep the bronze props from corroding.
Kirk B.
Kirk B.
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
Seen that before. Thought about it but it is too small to worry about as long as I take care of it.
My TM never had any corrosion issues as it was rated for saltwater and I rinsed it after each saltwater use.
I think mine went out from magnetic brush wear of the motor. Heck, I used that thing at high power A LOT getting around the bays and offshore. It was a work horse for sure. It could have also been abused by me running a ground stopping the prop quite a few times. It could have put too much torque on the prop thus transferring to the motor. My torque pin on the prop does get bent but I have never had one break on me. I use a stainless steel pin which is stronger to break or corrode.
Buying my new 30 lb motor tomorrow. post a pic of the finished product later. For $99 I'll add it to my kayak for the convenience of protecting my back for another year.
My TM never had any corrosion issues as it was rated for saltwater and I rinsed it after each saltwater use.
I think mine went out from magnetic brush wear of the motor. Heck, I used that thing at high power A LOT getting around the bays and offshore. It was a work horse for sure. It could have also been abused by me running a ground stopping the prop quite a few times. It could have put too much torque on the prop thus transferring to the motor. My torque pin on the prop does get bent but I have never had one break on me. I use a stainless steel pin which is stronger to break or corrode.
Buying my new 30 lb motor tomorrow. post a pic of the finished product later. For $99 I'll add it to my kayak for the convenience of protecting my back for another year.
Re: Great White trolling motor
I guess what I named this post is not exactly what I meant. Most of the White in color trolling motors are meant for saltwater use. And as many people that have kayaks, a person would think you would see more post with a white in color trolling motor. I have found absolutely Zero on youtube. And i'm surprised nobody on this forum has posted one. Now this could have been because it was 20 years ago. But my past experience with a plain jane $89 trolling motor from academy in the saltwater was not a good one. They lasted maybe 3 trips and that was it. They were completely locked up.
Re: Great White trolling motor
This is the type trolling motor I was referring to.
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
Yep, I see. As long as you do your research on the motor you buy you will find they will last as long as you take care of them no matter what type water you fish in. My first "saltwater" TM was this Watersnake and it was white. The Bass pro is black and states on the web page it is not salt water rated. If you look up what makes a motor salt water rated you will find what I did and that is the motor's fin is coated with a more corrosion resistant treatment and the hardware is true stainless steel parts that should not rust. Nothing about the motor housing is discussed. As well many reviews have been made by people that did use them for salt water and they work well for them.
It's all up to the buyer. Find a TM that will fit through the mirage drive opening and have it be slat water rated then the Watersnake is the only TM I have found to be able to meet both these requirements. It's only 24 lb or 18 lb motors and are cost a bit more than the 30 lb non slat water rated TM. I will use the BP TM for the next year and let you know how it goes.
It's all up to the buyer. Find a TM that will fit through the mirage drive opening and have it be slat water rated then the Watersnake is the only TM I have found to be able to meet both these requirements. It's only 24 lb or 18 lb motors and are cost a bit more than the 30 lb non slat water rated TM. I will use the BP TM for the next year and let you know how it goes.
Re: Great White trolling motor
I have not researched nearly as much as you have but, there's enough paints on the market now days. You could probably buy some and give the shaft and house a couple good heavy coats. Might do the trick. I may try this.
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
That is not rust on the TM above. It is mud. You can see where the paint has been scratched off by shell and it is not corroding one bit. I check it when I clean it after each use. I agree that paint or what I use, plasti-dip, will help keep it from corroding but you really don't need it unless you start to see any corrosion. If you find any clean the area thoroughly and apply sealant and coat with paint/plasti-dip. Works well.
The shaft never had any issues. You have to use goop to seal any openings at the top or water will get in if it rains or you flip and the motor will be shot. That is why I use PVC to seal it tight. But the shaft is SS and it never rusted as well as the SS clamp I put below cassette to keep the blade from hitting the kayak.
As long as SS is used then you will have a salt water rated TM because water does not get in the motor in either salt or fresh. It is all about the corrosion.
I have opened to inspect it one time before 6 months ago and found no leaks or corrosion or damage inside. I clean the seals and put it back together and it was the same when I opened it this time when it died except I found the magnetic brush shavings seized and burned the stater. Don't be afraid to do maintenance on your TM. See YouTube videos if you need help.
The shaft never had any issues. You have to use goop to seal any openings at the top or water will get in if it rains or you flip and the motor will be shot. That is why I use PVC to seal it tight. But the shaft is SS and it never rusted as well as the SS clamp I put below cassette to keep the blade from hitting the kayak.
As long as SS is used then you will have a salt water rated TM because water does not get in the motor in either salt or fresh. It is all about the corrosion.
I have opened to inspect it one time before 6 months ago and found no leaks or corrosion or damage inside. I clean the seals and put it back together and it was the same when I opened it this time when it died except I found the magnetic brush shavings seized and burned the stater. Don't be afraid to do maintenance on your TM. See YouTube videos if you need help.
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
New motor, 30 lb, standard prop (much harder than the watersnake props), will go to aluminum if this blade ever breaks but it feels solid. Bass Pro TM's are motorguide models for prop replacement.
Re: Great White trolling motor
I need to get mine done. I've been rebuilding a trailer I just bought for the yak and have had no time to mess with the motor.
- Drifting Yak
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Re: Great White trolling motor
So Charlie - How has the Bass Pro trolling motor worked so far?
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
Great! This 30 lb is a tighter fit than the 24 lb in the mirage drive but it works well! I get about .5-1 mph faster on the water. I was getting 3-3.5 and can get to 3.5-4.3 with little wind.
Using it in salt and rinse it after use. No issues so far. Took it BTB and worked well out there too.
Using it in salt and rinse it after use. No issues so far. Took it BTB and worked well out there too.
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Re: Great White trolling motor
Good to hear. Thinking about taking the TM plunge for my PA so am checking out options.
Re: Great White trolling motor
Who makes the bracket for the Jackson Big Rig. I need one.
Re: Great White trolling motor
I am going to try out the TM idea for the Outback. Making this motor mount this weekend. This guy is a genius - almost as smart as Mr. Kickingback.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNzLB8-ghvw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07f-Ojs2bUs
I want to keep the mirage drive opening free for night stalking and I like the fact that you can pull it out pretty easy. I don't use those Rod Holders anyway since I have my dual crate, but I might have to re-engineer that for optimal battery placement.
Will report back on results.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNzLB8-ghvw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07f-Ojs2bUs
I want to keep the mirage drive opening free for night stalking and I like the fact that you can pull it out pretty easy. I don't use those Rod Holders anyway since I have my dual crate, but I might have to re-engineer that for optimal battery placement.
Will report back on results.
Last edited by shoffer on Sat Jul 21, 2018 8:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
- kickingback
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Re: Great White trolling motor
That is cool! I may have to make me one and do the same so that when I fish the ship channel I can get out of the way faster using the TM and mirage drive.
I say shipping channel because I have crossed the channel a couple of times in different areas and if the wind is blowing hard you can not get speed. I've had a couple of large freighters blow their horns at me (even though I was 1/2 mile from them) and some idiot on their deck comes out and yells at me to get out of the way. I yelled back if I am in the way of your big arse ship then I am dead you idiot! I laughed. He laughed. I went back to fishing.
I say shipping channel because I have crossed the channel a couple of times in different areas and if the wind is blowing hard you can not get speed. I've had a couple of large freighters blow their horns at me (even though I was 1/2 mile from them) and some idiot on their deck comes out and yells at me to get out of the way. I yelled back if I am in the way of your big arse ship then I am dead you idiot! I laughed. He laughed. I went back to fishing.
Re: Great White trolling motor
Check this out. Battery for trolling motor that weighs 1 pound. Buy two at nearly the same price as a 12v 35ah battery, but 22 pounds lighter, much easier to mount. Buy two and have all day power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FRa56M8HBM
https://fishingwa.us/hobie-kayak-trolling-motor/
I am going to try it out and report back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FRa56M8HBM
https://fishingwa.us/hobie-kayak-trolling-motor/
I am going to try it out and report back.
- kickingback
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