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#1927827
People are asking about every week about kayaks – which to get and how to rig them.

Kayaks run 300$ to 3,000$ plus rigging. I bought my 4th kayak yesterday and wanted to share for the new person what to look for and how to do a basic rig of your kayak. Kayakers are worse than boaters on what is the best size of kayak and which is the best kayak to buy. When I started kayaking in 2000 most kayaks were 14 to 16 feet in length, then came the fad of 12 ft kayaks with the old OK drifter kayak , and now in the last 6-7 years you see about every size, shape, length, and brand of kayak in the world and more new ones each month. Everyone has a kayak for sale. There are some good inexpensive kayaks out there and a lot of cr--.

Rudders are another thing that people either love or hate. I like them because I can keep my kayak on a straighter drift using one while still fishing and not having to pick up my paddle.

Look at the bottom of a kayak. You want a pointed bow that is not flat at the top to cut down on hull slap while fishing. You need some groves on the bottom of the kayak to help keep the kayak going straight while you are fishing or you are sliding and drifting all around just like a canoe which is the case in some of the kayaks.
I have always liked the Wilderness Tarpon kayaks for a good all around priced kayak that tracks well. You can get a lot of different opinions. I have a Tarpon 160, 120 and now a perception 100. (I own a 16’, 2- 12’ and 10’ kayaks.) Distance- For the same paddle effort my 160 will go 5 miles and the 120 will go 3 miles and the 100 will go ~ 2+ miles. The 160 is a great boat and is as close to a sea kayak as you can get with knee straps. The 120 is a great all around size that is easy to carry and fish out of . I bought the 100 to fit on the Baby Cat and fish where the shell and mud is too hard on an old man. The 100 is also a great little surf kayak because with knee straps it is easier to get into heavier surf than a longer kayak.
Last bit of History: Tarpon changed up their kayak mold 6? Years ago to a new design and started making a less expensive version of the old Tarpon called “Peception Sport” Pescador series from the old molds. The bottom of the old Tarpon is basically the same as the new Tarpon. Looking on line Tarpon 120 basic kayak runs 900$ ande the 120 Pescador at Academy runs ~500$. The 100 Pescador runs ~450$ at academy and Gander mountain has the Pescador on sale for 349$ and throws in a cheap paddle and life jacket that will work. The paddle is 225 cm and it just a little shortin length for most people but if you have never kayaked you will not know the difference weight between the paddles till you have used a cheap heavy paddle and the very lt wt expensive ones.

I am posting this start up kayak post for the guy/girl that does not have a pocket full of money but still wants a good inexpensive kayak and set up.

The other thing to do is rig your own kayak. It is not rocket science and even an Aggie can do it as long as he does not put any holes in the bottom of the kayak. ;) :)

Hopefully this will give you a better idea of kayaks and what to look for. I have the original “what to look for in a kayak” posted in the articles section on TKF that deal with the other factors in picking a kayak. This is geared more for the average size guy, in reasonable health, and a wife or gf that will not let him spend all his money and still wants to work horse kayak on a budget.

Below is the basic rigging I have done for years and changes a little to fit each kayak. I probably will not do a depth finder on the 100 but it is easy to do with drilling a cable hole and mounting holes in the left front of the ft well like the 120. I use what is called a Vaseline or liquid mount for the transducer on the inside of the kayak. Simple sand area, clean with acetone and glue a piece of close cell foam in the bottom of the kayak after cutting a tight fit hole for the TD. Once foam is dried you use vaselone to fill the inside of the hole and shove the td down. Stuff works just like a water mount or straight glueing to the bottom of the kayak except it will not lose contact like I have seen with TD pucks glued st to the bottom of the kayak. There is an old old post on how to do this type of mount in the archives somewhere.

I will start with the basic needs as I see it with the little Pescador 100 and compare it to the 120 in rigging. I carry a more gear (first aid, er kit, orange plastic for er signals, marine radio, spare batteries ect.) but here are my kayak basics.

1. Life jacket- inflatable and my expensive real life jacket for serious fishing conditions both have a thunder whistle attached to the jacket and Er flares in the pockets.
2. Paddle with leash and clip. Home made- the ones they sell you drag in the water with the bungi
3. Claw or bruce anchor and about 10 ft of anchor rope. Used to carry extra anchor rope for deep fishing.
(Not sure I ever the extra rope but...) Basically other anchors suck and do not hold as well as the claw imho. I use the back left flush mounted rod holder to hold my anchor while fishing.
4. Drift sock and clip
5. Bow rope long enough to allow you to get to the back of your kayak. This can clip to you and you can pull your kayak behind you while wading and still get to the back of the kayak and your gear in the tw.
6. Drag weight with clip and rope. WT depends This wt ties to the back of your kayak so wading down wind the boat will stay behind you and not out front pulling you along and in the way wade fishing.
7. A Stringer that attaches to the kayak pad eyes and one for wading if you do so. Cooler to put fish in after fishing. You cannot paddle and drag a stringer in the water becasue it is about like drag a drift sock..
8. 360 light for night fishing. Fits in the rod holder behind the seat when put together. (ideas in archives)
9. Eagle depth finder that mounts in the front compartment of the 120 with cable and battery in the front hatch. Two thoughts here. I like nothing above the top of my kayak while others like a big bar mounted out in front of them for their gps, rod holders and other cr— At the time the eagle df read in 1/10's of a ft and the other inexpensive ones read in feet only.
10. With flush mounted rod holders I have pieces of pvc to keep the rods about a foot off the deck to keep them out of the waves in rough water. Saves a lot of reel cleaning.
11. Rod floats for when; not if you turtle over or drop a rod over the side. Saved 5 different caurados over the years.
12. Small water proof pack or cooler in the front of the kayak with er, medical, toilet paper and other er gear. I placed a hook off the screw that holds the front hatch in place to clip the cooler used for this and to hold battery bag for Eagle df. This keeps the gear from sliding down in the kayak out of reach inside the kayak.
13. One the 120 I have made a set of rod holders to fit on the back of the seat and will do the same for the 100.
I also installed flush mounted rod holders. great place to stick your claw anchor when paddling.
14. Look at the picture of the knee braces in place. This keeps you attached to the kayak going thru the surf and such. Otherwise it is hard to paddle with your ass a ft or so off the kayak in the breakers. I have posted up on how to make a simple set in the archives.
15. I like an anchor/ drift sock pulley system down one side of the kayak. This keeps you tracking better than attaching the anchor or sock to the side of the kayak on a set pad eye. Do you own and it does not have to run the whole length of the kayak.
16. I do not use a crate but a lot of people do and you can place rod holders, cooler and other gear here too.
17. I have a small cooler that clips and fits on the back of my seat that carries my baits and few other items
18. Not shown in the px but I recommend a set of cutting pliers and knife mounted where they can be reached in case of need or emergency while kayaking. There is always that chance that you have an accident and get tangled or hooked in your gear and need to cut your way free.

I will try to put up some simple rigging ideas because there is nothing that you cannot rig on a kayak yourself. Welding up a hole up is about the only thing and it is hard to do. Tip- To fill a screw or rivet hole on the top of your kayak use a heat glue gun and then push the glue thru the hole. If you want take a razorblade and trim the excess off for a better finish. It will hold and keep the area from leaking. I can weld a little and you will never get a perfect finish around the area where you weld the small hole.ho.

With some pad eyes and rivets and a little thought and careful cutting there is not much you cannot do yourself and for me that is 1/2 the fun of owning a kayak. Just think it thru then look and measure again (think again) before drilling. ;)- JimD
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User avatar
By JimD
#1927854
It depends on your seat. On my old high back tarpon 160 the holders are tie wrapped into the back of the seat.

This is a simple rig for a newer tarpon style seat or pescador (same seat).

The white frame is made from an old white plastic 3/8" cutting board
Behind the two rod holders I drilled holes thru the cutting board to run two tie wraps on each side (4 total) thru the holes in the back of the seat where the strap runs.
Donot remember where I got the metal straps but guess I cut and formed the strips from some aluminum that I had then drilled them. Easier ways to do this. Large tie wraps and possibly a piece of wire to make sure they stayed put. Just did not want them blowing off in the wind.
#1928154
Post up if you have a question.

I still like where my Eagle DF sits below deck in the left foot well. Simple little angle bracket and it mounts in there and barely sticks up above the deck. You can see the round gray attachment in the px.

I am big in using the 10 ss hooks off the old Walmart 3.50$ dollar stringer for all sorts of clips as long as you bend three of the four ears down so they will not come lose. I have one hung from the screw inside the front tank well to hang my battery bag for the df and to hook other small bags to keep them from sliding down inside the kayak.

These clips make great clips to hook things to the pad eyes or wading belt if you are short on funds. I use them to hold my boga, pliers and other items to belt or boat. I use the regular brass clip for the anchor but one is attached on the same hook so that I can put a short loop in the anchor and tie the kayak off short if needed so that all 10 foot of rope is not out. Also have a short fish stringer with 4 or 5 hooks for fishing. I use real brass clips where I need to make sure the attachment will hold with anchor, drift sock, and wade rope.

If you put in your own flush mounted rod holders in be sure that you get the ones that the PVC will fit in. I have not had the need to rig a new boat in 5-6 years but some of the old white ones were not shaped for the pvc extender. The only thing I see now is everyone seems to carry a lot of the rigging parts now. I have an ACK about 5 minutes from the office up in spring that appears well stocked when I stopped by last week to get a ft peg for the old 160.

Stopped by ACK and grabbed a claw anchor and flush mounted rod holder. I have some pad eyes and rivets from past years.
To work on a kayak you need the correct size drill bits and motor, rivet gun, I also have hole saw that is correct size for the flush mounted rod holder. The big thing is to know about where you want to mount things on
Other than that it is simply about marking the holes in the correct places. I drill one hole then peg it with a rivet then drill the other hole so that you are on the money with the holes same with the rod holder. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SPOT.
PAID 13 FOR ANCHOR 10 FOR ROD HOLDER AND NEEDED 10 RIVETS. HAD THE SILICON TO COVER HOLES, AND SOME ROPE FOR THE ANCHOR AND TROLLEY.
For the two rod holders on the back of the seat, I used an old 3/8 thick 8.5 x 11 cutting board few tie wraps, a two old rod holders. I hand made the first holder brackets but I was in HD and found 1 1/2 size single brackets in electrical and used them along with some #8 x 1" bolts to secure the rod holders to the cutting board. I had earlier drilled holes in the board so the tie wraps could go thru the hole then thru holes in the back of the seat. Two large tie wraps to each hole.

So for about an hour or 1 1/2 hour so of time I had trolly, flush mount rod holder, and seat back rod holders completed and installed.

Have fun rigging.

Jim

I use mainly rivets but the rule of thumb is if you can reach thru one of the hatches so that you can attach and hold the nut then bolts work. If you cannot reach the area then rivets are the only thing to use.
#1936798
Took less than 2 hrs to rig the boat. I could not find the cutting board.

Ended up simple with one flush mounted rod holder that doubles for my bruce anchor holder. Added a quick anchor and drift sock trolly.
I add pad eyes and bungi across the front hatch so that can stick my paddle and front rope under to hold them in place when not needed.
Revised how I did the two rod holders as posted.

Not much rigging but it makes a difference. I also use a smaller cooler that attaches to the back of the seat and it double for tackle box, knife holder, plastics, water and few other items that I carry when fishing off the Baby cat. Except for life jacket I usually do not carry much in the tank well but I rarely get more than a mile from the Baby Cat too.
#2000703
Great tips. I ordered my first kayak, a Wilderness Ride 115 and should be here by the end of this week. Ready to get it in. I'm trying to determine what I must have, would like to have, and don't need to have. I'll be the first to admit I like gadgets and will stick way way way too much junk on it. So I'm going to try and make a few trips before I do a single thing to the 'yak. But when I do, I'm glad that its easy enough for even an Aggie!
#2018230
aggiejon wrote:Great tips. I ordered my first kayak, a Wilderness Ride 115 and should be here by the end of this week. Ready to get it in. I'm trying to determine what I must have, would like to have, and don't need to have. I'll be the first to admit I like gadgets and will stick way way way too much junk on it. So I'm going to try and make a few trips before I do a single thing to the 'yak. But when I do, I'm glad that its easy enough for even an Aggie!

Did you get the ride? How you like it? I just got two ride 115x and haven't been out yet..but they look sweet
#2050084
How did it go rigging the new kayaks? I would recommend that you take the basics paddle/leash, lifejacket, ropes and anchor and go to a local shallow lake and get out and paddle to learn your new kayak before you drill holes thru out your kayak and then regret what you did.

Many times I would Velcro something in place to see if that is where I wanted something placed.

I Will Guarantee you that sitting in the garage in your kayak and looking where you want to mount something will change out on the water most of the time. ;)

The other thing to point out is my OLD TARPON 120 is NOW the Perception 120 except that the bottom of the Perception 120 has a different texture. Fig Academy had the P120 for ~500$ the last time I looked and the Tarpon 120 retails for about ~900$ but I have not looked at kayak costs in some time. For a budget that difference for basically the same kayak could do a lot of the equipment and rigging costs.
#2165043
Absolutely great post. I just picked up this Emotion Stealth Angler at Academy for $200 bucks off the $500 price. I took it out to Moses Lake for the maiden voyage, and all in all went well. I didn't hook any fish, but I did a lot of paddling. Does anyone use a stake out stick, or just a traditional anchor? I had problems drifting around (side to side) so it interrupted my fishing constantly having to paddle to adjust. I've got some of the basics you've listed here, but the anchor I need for sure. One thing I didn't realize is the scupper plugs to me seem like a must, it was a little cold to be as wet as I was. All in all a great time and I look forward to going out again.
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#2191387
Thanks for the ideas of how to rig my kayak, I am currently in the process of gathering the equipment needed to yak/fish safely. Where do or should I ask how you stow anchor line when fishing in deeper water?

I have a Ocean Prowler 13 sit-on-top and have really enjoied the yak, though I do wish I had more knowledge before I bought the boat.
#2247675
Here's the nice thing about having Scotty pieces around - coming up with new ideas.
Mounting an extension arm to a milk crate giving another option for a rod mount location.
Had to drill one guide hole in the milk crate, added a washer stack between the guide hole and rod mount, but it mounts like it belongs there.
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and of course, can still remove the extension arm and use it elsewhere
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and since I was snapping photos, my stake-out pole mount. You can totally forget about it until you need it.
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User avatar
By Ron Mc
#2248836
This place used to be so busy, and there is a lot of great information on rigging that's in limbo because of photobucket.

Seeing Past Photobucket Hotlink Block

Unless the OP deleted their photobucket account, every old photobucket image is still linked on this website (and every other place on the internet). Photobucket has chosen to show you a block image instead of the original image.

There are Free Add-Ons available for both Chrome and Firefox, which will let you choose to see the original photo instead of the "ransom block" image, both on this bulletin board and every other internet website.

For Chrome - https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en

for Firefox - https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... ket-fixer/

With this, you can see everyone's old photobucket images in context on every thread and every website.

Uploading the patch, you're not doing photobucket any favors, giving them any money, agreeing with them - all you're doing is restoring your old knowledge base to where it was before the photobucket ransom

If you want to remove the add on later, go to Add-ons/Extensions and remove or disable it, or with Chrome, just right-click on your toolbar.
User avatar
By Ron Mc
#2250610
Ron Mc wrote:This place used to be so busy, and there is a lot of great information on rigging that's in limbo because of photobucket.

Seeing Past Photobucket Hotlink Block

Unless the OP deleted their photobucket account, every old photobucket image is still linked on this website (and every other place on the internet). Photobucket has chosen to show you a block image instead of the original image.

There are Free Add-Ons available for both Chrome and Firefox, which will let you choose to see the original photo instead of the "ransom block" image, both on this bulletin board and every other internet website.

For Chrome - https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en

for Firefox - https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... ket-fixer/

With this, you can see everyone's old photobucket images in context on every thread and every website.

Uploading the patch, you're not doing photobucket any favors, giving them any money, agreeing with them - all you're doing is restoring your old knowledge base to where it was before the photobucket ransom

If you want to remove the add on later, go to Add-ons/Extensions and remove or disable it, or with Chrome, just right-click on your toolbar.

it works great and opens up all the archives on this forum and every internet forum, except where the OP deleted their photobucket account
#2251406
Not sure if the Original Poster will see this, but how did you rig your rudder control line? Or anyone answer if you have an opinion on the matter :)

I see there is something like a pully and the ropes connected directly to the rudder run up to about even with the seat. How does that work out for you?

I've got a Heritage 12' redfish kayak, I just bought a cheap $30 rudder (looked pretty legit) and the attachment bracket; but I have no means of controlling it.
I saw there are foot pedals I could install, but they run about $60 and I saw reports that they don't hold up so well in the salt water.
Primarily I want the rudder for when I've moving between spots because I always have to fight the wind, and I'd guess you set the rudder as you go and then don't have to mess with it much afterwards (unless you start getting way off course).
I like to fish from the kayak though so foot control seems like it could be nice if I'm drifting down a river with a tide change, but I just wondered how your setup works for fishing from a kayak while drifting. Seems like it wouldn't be too much effort to make minor course corrections with 1 hand in between casts.

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