Inaccessible location mounting technique

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shinedog
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:29 pm
Location: Houston-Spring Branch

Inaccessible location mounting technique

Post by shinedog »

I just wanted to post this to share with those folks in a quandary about mounting some accessory to their yak where they are unable to back up the nut, or can’t even get to the spot to stick the bolt through from the inside out. I was faced with this issue a while back and stumbled on a method that I now use instead of bolts and fender washers or well nuts on practically every install.

I’ll describe the process in the case of installing a rope cleat on an inaccessible portion of the yaks gunwale. First remove from the kitchen your wife’s nylon cutting board, the portable variety that is between 3/8” to ½” thick. The cutting board will soon become a new “backer plate”. Survey the area of the gunwale on which you want to mount the cleat, determine the width of this area visualizing the curve and space on the underside. You don’t want it too wide so that it won’t fit flush, but the bigger it is the greater area the load will be spread over. Mark this dimension on the cutting board. Measure the length of the cleat’s base footprint and add 2” to this dimension (if the space under the gunwale will allow) again the bigger the better within reason. Cut the marked portion of the cutting board free from the sheet and center the cleat on what is your now new backer plate. Mark the cleats hole centers and drill starter hole to the recommended diameter for the size of self tapping screw you are going to use to mount the cleat. In my case #10 SS sheet metal screw = 7/64” starter hole. Run a screw through the hole back and forth to cut good clean threads in the nylon backer plate. You will notice some really clean sweet threads. Now for the hard part, mark the cleat’s hole centers on the yak where you want to mount it. Again drill starter hole and run the self tapping screw a couple of times.

Now for the easy part; take two lengths of string (of a diameter that fits through these holes) and shove a liberal length through the holes you made on the gunwale. You can even tie a loop in the string (a big loop) and shove the string into the hull up to the loop’s knot if you have a strong string with small enough diameter. (In fact you can make the hole in the yak bigger than the screw your using because it is not imperative that the screw actually thread into the yak.) Now take a coat hanger, fish tape, wire, or a stick with duct tape wrapped around the end of it (sticky side out) and “fish” for the string through one of your access holes and pull the strings out (the small knots for loops will pull through the hole in the yak). Don’t twist the strings around one another. It’s better to fish them one at a time and pull them out separately.

Thread the string through the holes in your backer plate. With several half hitches I attach a small scrape of wood (pencil size) to the string on the backside so I that I will get a better load distribution on it later when I am pulling it into place and don’t risk pulling knots through the holes. Spread your favorite sealant on the face of the backer plate that will make contact with the inside of the hull (I like Goop Plumbing or Marine). Now pull on both strings (from outside the hull) evenly pulling the backer plate to your mounting location. The string will center the backer plate holes with the holes in the hull. You can mount the accessory now, or secure it into place with some shorter temporary screws and come back tomorrow and mount the cleat. To start the screws continue to pull both strings with one hand while you start a screw, leaving the string in place, as you tighten the screw will eventually cut the string. Run one screw up snug. Continue to pull up on the remaining string and get the other screw snugged up. Tighten the up as you like. Now your cleat is installed IMHO the best it can be. You are distributing more load over a greater area than any size fender washer(s) can apply and you are not going to pull those self tapping screws through the 3/8” backer plate. Also, you didn’t scrape your arms reaching up through access holes drop your wrench or need your wife’s help. You probably didn’t even have to curse, unless you just wanted to. I use this method with the backer plate without the “fishing” technique, for mounting hardware in even accessible locations. Before I forget, to get the pencil sized piece of wood used as a backup out of the hull tilt up yak till it is accessible through an access hole, or send your shop-vac hose in after it.

If it works for you pass it on.
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length
Posts: 476
Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 5:22 pm
Location: Opinions are like rear ends every one has one and they all stink from time to time!

Re: Inaccessible location mounting technique

Post by length »

I like it! :clap:
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chazbo
TKF 2000 club
TKF 2000 club
Posts: 2151
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 6:54 am
Location: MulletJump, TX

Re: Inaccessible location mounting technique

Post by chazbo »

Excellent technique!!!!!! Bravo!!!! :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
greauxpete
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2009 12:03 pm

Re: Inaccessible location mounting technique

Post by greauxpete »

Great tecnique!

Another tip. Instead of threading the plastic, you could use a stainless "t-nut" with prongs.
The t-nut provides a more robust thread and when the prongs are hammered into the plastic, keeps the t nut from spinning and keeps it from falling out when turned upside down.
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creekstone
Posts: 265
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 1:57 pm
Location: Fulshear, TX

Re: Inaccessible location mounting technique

Post by creekstone »

Take a look at the Yakattack Rigging Bullet: http://www.austinkayak.com/products/857 ... -Trac.html

Check out the video link.
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kickingback
TKF 5000 Club
TKF 5000 Club
Posts: 5178
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:24 pm
Location: Houston, Texas

Re: Inaccessible location mounting technique

Post by kickingback »

Good stuff! Is it like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRkCE-GlZcg
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