I have a bent-shaft Werner Camano that's the best blade for handling my Kestrel, and a straight shaft Werner Coryvecken to put some go in my T160.
The two paddles are 5mm different in length, and almost identical in weight - even with a larger glass blade on the Coryvecken, because there's more weight in the bent shaft.
I've been using Yak grips on the straight shaft.
The problem with Yak grips is that, when wet, they slide too easily on the shaft, and it gets annoying on the water trying to re-position them.
I have some 1/8" closed-cell foam, I used for lining a bike bag, with half a sheet left over. It's the same thickness as the Yak grips.
Decided I would try X-grip polyolefin heat-shrink tubing over a layer of the closed cell foam to make permanent spongy indexed grips on my straight-shaft paddle. This is the same textured grip you see used over hypalon and EVA foregrips on offshore rods.
I'll use 3M 77 spray adhesive to stick the foam to the paddle, and the X-heat-shrink to cover it for a grip surface. I measured the shaft diameter at 1.12 inch - with quarter-inch of foam, that's 35mm total diameter, and ordered 45mm X-grip shrink tubing.
I was happy to remove the Yak grips.
Making the permanent grips each 7 inches long, an inch longer than Yak grips, giving me a little wiggle room.
Here's the grip width masked off on the straight shaft, and showing the position relative to the bend in the nearly-matching-length bent shaft.
Made very good measurements from the top of the blade to the inside edges of the masking tape.
There's nothing in the 3M 77 spray glue that hurts either the foam or the paddle resin, and if I hate it, it will slough off the shaft with alcohol or mineral spirts.
I used a little algebra to calculate the width of my closed-cell foam. After rounding up and trying the first cut one for fit, they need to be a 1/4-inch wider than pi-times-D.
Set up here to spray adhesive on one side of the foam, and on the masked portion of the shaft. No time to take photos here, the adhesive is ready to stick in 20 seconds, and it took awhile to spray both the foam strip and the shaft masking, and strip the masking from the shaft.
positioned the shaft, and rolled it on the sticky foam, and used spiral wrap of masking to cure it for 30 min.
I kept adding a little length with each step, making the foam strips just a bit longer than the shaft masking.
So my shrink tube sections were 8" long, allowing for shrink and wrap around the ends.
Used a rocket launcher to rotate the shaft while initial shaping the X-grip shrink tube with a blow drier.
Here's after the blow drier - it may look fitted, but it's loose as all get out.
From there, I took each grip inside to the sink and used boiling water to finish the shrink.
May not see much difference here, but it's tight.
all done, and grips feel great - they have that soapy feel of the X-shrink, grip like crazy, and just-right spongy soft - much more comfortable than Yak grips, and they don't slide - or will find out on the water, but they should be stuck in just the right place.