Kayak size

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Savannah2012
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 1:40 pm

Kayak size

Post by Savannah2012 »

I recently just sold my 10 ft. heritage to upgrade to something new. Looking at the ascends, and can't decide between the 10T or 12T. I'm 5'4 & weigh 120. Would the 2 ft make a major difference as far as standing up and fishing goes in comparison to the 10 ft.? Thanks in advance!


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jhb
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Re: Kayak size

Post by jhb »

When comparing similar kayaks (Ascend 10' vs Ascend 12'), then 2' will make a difference. However, some kayaks are designed to be stood in- take the WS Ride for example. No problem standing in 11.5' or 13.5' feet. As a general rule, a 12' kayak is the compromise length. Good for maneuverability on rivers and long enough to handle flat water (lakes/bays) without a ton of effort. Above 13' and you're getting to be too long for smaller rivers. Below 12' and you start losing the ability to track and glide well (which you want on lakes/bays). So I would say the length of your new kayak really depends on where you want to paddle just as much as features you might want. If you're looking to stand and fish, a 12' for your size should do the trick.

So yes, 2' makes a difference, it just depends on what type of difference you're looking for and willing to work around.
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TG Canoes and Kayaks
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Re: Kayak size

Post by TG Canoes and Kayaks »

Savannah, fist things first - do not purchase a kayak without paddling it (fit, feel, speed, maneuverability, comfort, and outfitting will be experienced). If you want to stand and fish, do not purchase a kayak without standing on it in water you will be fishing. At 5'4" and 120#, another question to answer is, can I pick this up and move this kayak to and from storage, load it, get it to and from the water, and reverse the sequence? Kayak weight could be an issue. The hull is always the most important part of the purchase. Wrong hull, wrong kayak, period. It is the drive train of the kayak and is the reason the kayak paddles and navigates as it does. Long and skinny is fast and tippy. Short and wide is slow and stable. Round bottom has very little initial stability and a flat bottom has much stability but will be barge like - think flat bottom jon boat. A shallow "V" bottom is desirable on open water as it separates and slides though the water. Add width and a fairly hard chine and the kayak gains initial stability to stand as the bottom gets to be as wide as it can be before meeting the side of the kayak. Savannah, paddle everything so you can make the right purchase. Upgrading is expensive and the lost time paddling the wrong kayak is not retrievable. I'm just getting started with information. Check out your local kayak dealers. We keep over 100 different models of kayaks in stock because they all scratch different itches and getting the right one is so important. If you have questions, feel free to ask. All the best to you.
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Duane TG
T G Canoes and Kayaks
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