hmm, don't think the editorial is justified, since I bought one new fly line using the exercise of comparing how the rod loaded with 7 old ones, which included 20- and 35-year old lines - different tapers from 130-gr to 300-gr - long-belly floating, long front taper floating, 2 slime lines, 2 shooting heads (would be pointless to try heavier), 9-wt rocket taper.
If you ask me, I'd say it's a smart way to spend your money.
At least 4 of those lines were bought on close-out back when - the 9-wt Cortland salt rocket was a long-ago gift from a friend who thought I had a place for it - sure enough - 2nd cast of the morning in the back of Allyn's Lake on a Fisher Natural 9'9-wt progressive taper - 1st cast was a larger spec that tore the hook out on her 2nd run.
The CGR 7/8 is going to load exactly the same for anybody - the taper is characteristic of the rod, as are the lines.
I found early the rod with the right slime line was exactly what I wanted to do, starting with a foot of taper outside the rod tip - staged to pick up and fish - shoot twice the belly on the 3rd stroke, with exactly one false cast between to feed out the full belly.
I set out to duplicate this result in a floating line, and tried many line configurations I already had, focusing in on what worked best and why - it was a valuable exercise for anybody who owns the same rod. It answers Ben's OP question.
It was also to accomplish the one niche I have for this rod - sitting in a kayak and fishing as soon as possible.
I specifically found the CGR 7/8 would handle any over-weighted or under-weighted line great in close, but the mid gave up trying to shoot an over-weighted line to distance - characteristic of only that rod. The rod would not shoot an under-weighted line - different result from many of my long fast rods, and even the 1960 glass Harnell shown with the slime line above. (The shortcoming of the Harnell is the skinny guides won't fit a modern floating line - the rod is too nice to alter, and it shines with the slime line, so it's my dock-fishing rod ).
The CGR 7/8 would shoot a short-front taper over-weighted line, but only with perfect loading rate and timing, which you're unlikely to be able to repeat under the pressure of trying to set up a cast to visible fish sign.
My 45 years experience doing this counts for something.
I can also consistently shoot my TS-250 on RPLX-7 to 140' (including that much backing and my Allbright knot).
Though the 9' RPLX-7 is an unforgiving para-taper rod, and the reason they over-weight so many salt fly lines in the market - to make fast graphite rods more forgiving.
Also got the chance to try the Cortland Salt Guide on one of my longer fast para inshore rods (kayak as wade taxi), and found it behaved exactly as I described above - fishes any distance with the fewest possible false casts.
Though I still prefer the Rio Redfish line on my longer fast rods. I also stated the Rio Redfish cast wonderfully in close with the CGR 7/8, it just wouldn't shoot to distance.
The one line I've never liked was the 35-y-o Mastery Bonefish floating, which was a joke trying with the CGR 7/8 (a result that googles on many reviews of the same rod).
The Mastery slime line, however, works great on the rod.