Kayak Kid wrote:Ronmc,
That's the ugliest, silliest fly I've seen in a long time. Probably going to net you lots of fish...
I don't tie many dries, but can't beat elkhair caddis, and need something equally visible when I'm forced to go smaller - the nice tall mast on a parachute helps to see them.
Look on the hook keeper. My kicking shrimp is my go-to salt fly
Look in the redfish's mouth
I've caught kings at the jetties on this fly.
Add a hi-tie, my fence lake roach, small poppers and small whistlers, and I'm all set for the salt.
Graphite is the answer to making a long rod lightweight, but absolutely doesn't work in shorter progressive taper rods.
Good thing they've been working on this question for 100 years
c.1915 Leonard Fairy Catskill, original 3-wt (line G)
Phillipson MF70 and a sight-fished Sabinal bass - they'll only take a high-sticked cats whisker, nothing on the swing.
A rod taper is the change in bulk modulus over the length of the rod.
Bulk modulus is the specific modulus times the moment of inertia (geometry - diameter and thickness).
You can make a long e-glass rod that exactly matches the taper of a graphite rod, but it would be pointless, because why triple the weight to get the same thing. As you go shorter, where the specific modulus of graphite is too great to achieve a break-proof rod, those good progressive tapers are in S-glass, cane, and e-glass, and the weight doesn't matter.
My Leonard above is 2-1/2 ounces in an 8' rod.
ps - every guide on the Guadalupe carries my swimming BWO for emergencies
fish this puppy on the swing in a BWO hatch
dun female - it's the eggs that make them olive
pocketwater result (that's my prewar Heddon/Folsom wind rod)