What makes a paddle
What makes a paddle
Since I've taken up the double paddle I have built every paddle I have used and have nothing tio compare them to. So my question is what makes a paddle?
Boar
Boar
- gerald
- TKF 4000 Club
- Posts: 4174
- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2003 10:48 am
- Location: Gatesville, tx www.theoldmansboats.com
I should add some more pictures to my boat building journal sometime next week. I'm going to combine the deck and hull this weekend. You can take a look at the latest strip built kayak at www.texaspaddler.com. Paddles are a very interesting subject. Such simple devices yet the dynamics of the sizes and shapes are incredibly diverse. CaptJack gives out very good advice and information about paddles. I sometimes play devil's advocate about paddles, but it is only because I hate to see anyone spend a lot of money for something they don't really need. Having said that I then say you should get the lightest, strongest design that fits your paddling style. Ah...but then you need to figure out what your style is going to be. This also depends on your boat.. Probably the first place to start would be to look at the paddles the manufacturors are selling. This will give you an idea about sizes and shapes. Most people use a paddle that is too big. You don't ordinarily need a big paddle except in whitewater and maybe surf. You can also use a search engine, type in "paddle building", or something like that and make a search of the thousands of pages that will come up. A great place to start is at www.lightningpaddles.com. Go to their "paddles 101" and the paddle info library. While there you can check out some of the paddles they make. I hope this information will help. Boy...I like this paddle building stuff. Once I have a little more time I'll be developing a line of wooden paddles, including Greenland style, that will go along with the boatbuilding that is slowly evolving into a pre-retirement business.
srchr/gerald,
Since you are on the subject of paddles, I have a question: First, I am 300lbs and I paddle a Tarpon 160. It seems like when I make a stroke my paddle inefficiently rips through the water, making alot of noise and not moving me forward as much as expected. Is this strictly poor technique and I should simply not stroke as forcefully? OR could I get a paddle with a fatter blade that would "hold" the water better i.e. more efficient and less noise? It just feels like it's slipping in the water, if that makes sense. What are the drawbacks of a fatter paddle blade?
Since you are on the subject of paddles, I have a question: First, I am 300lbs and I paddle a Tarpon 160. It seems like when I make a stroke my paddle inefficiently rips through the water, making alot of noise and not moving me forward as much as expected. Is this strictly poor technique and I should simply not stroke as forcefully? OR could I get a paddle with a fatter blade that would "hold" the water better i.e. more efficient and less noise? It just feels like it's slipping in the water, if that makes sense. What are the drawbacks of a fatter paddle blade?
- gerald
- TKF 4000 Club
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- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2003 10:48 am
- Location: Gatesville, tx www.theoldmansboats.com
You're doing what I call peeling out in your kayak. It's the same thing as peeling out (spinning your tires) in your car. Lots of wasted power...not much forward motion. What you should try to do is plant the full paddle blade in the water and move the kayak forward. Of course you are going to move some water as well...but you want to limit that. A bigger paddle gives you more of a power stroke, but a smaller paddle is usually better for cruising, or touring. Part of that has to do with cadence. The large paddle will force you to paddle at a slower cadence. With the smaller paddle you will have a faster cadence. Faster cadence is usually better for most people. I believe in being natural with cadence...that is, try to determine your natural cadence and use a paddle that compliments that cadence. Cruising (hull cruise speed) in a kayak should require no more energy than walking at about the same speed. Increasing your speed just a little doubles and triples the energy requirement. Anyway...take it easy in the kayak. When you start off go easy and gradually increase your paddling cadence until you are cruising. You might also want to ask CaptJack about this. He is really very knowledgeable about this and, in recent years at least, has applied his paddling techniques more than I have. I'm gonna have to start all over this year and work on my long range techniques. I've been lazy too long.
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- TKF 1000 Club
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- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2003 8:26 pm
- Location: Houston, TX
It keeps saying my handle has been taken.... but it's me that took it! This is "LWhitsell"... anyone else get this???
I have had my Tarpon 160 about 2 months but I have been out in it about 10 times, all but once in freshwater.
ride was rather wet (about an inch of water all the time) until I got some plugs for the scupper holes. Now I am completely dry unless/until I lean too far to one side and some water comes over the side. Not too bad though. I might start carrying a sponge for that.
As far as chop, I haven't been in any big stuff but it seems to take boat wash and everything I've encountered perfectly. However, It's my first yak and I haven't paddled anything else. I broke the "rule": always paddle before you buy. But I did alot of research, and I would do it again. Hopes this helps.
I have had my Tarpon 160 about 2 months but I have been out in it about 10 times, all but once in freshwater.
ride was rather wet (about an inch of water all the time) until I got some plugs for the scupper holes. Now I am completely dry unless/until I lean too far to one side and some water comes over the side. Not too bad though. I might start carrying a sponge for that.
As far as chop, I haven't been in any big stuff but it seems to take boat wash and everything I've encountered perfectly. However, It's my first yak and I haven't paddled anything else. I broke the "rule": always paddle before you buy. But I did alot of research, and I would do it again. Hopes this helps.
Boar
The things that are most important to me in a paddle are:
1) Weight, because you're lifting it every time you make a paddle stroke, and I don't want to lift anymore than I have to (I'm old and lazy you know)
2) Strength, because I don't want to have to replace a paddle because I put too much power in a stroke or banged it on a rock or shell bar.
3) Blade shape, because I don't want a lot of cavatation (slipping/fluttering) during a paddle stroke.
4) Cost, because I want the most paddle for the least amount of money.
My paddling style is more of a low brace with a slower than normal cadence. When I ordered my ONNO (Signature Carbon) from Patrick he suggested that I go with a shorter paddle than what I had been using and a full tour blade. I had to change my style a little, but it really improved my paddling efficiency. I gained .6 to .8 MPH (on the GPS) on my cruise speed. It doesn't sound like much, till you do the math. That's a little over a 20% gain. I sure can tell the difference at the end of the day.
To sum it up, The only thing I'd change with my ONNO would be the cost. They are not cheap, but cost less than other paddles that I have that aren't as efficient or as enjoyable to use.
The things that are most important to me in a paddle are:
1) Weight, because you're lifting it every time you make a paddle stroke, and I don't want to lift anymore than I have to (I'm old and lazy you know)
2) Strength, because I don't want to have to replace a paddle because I put too much power in a stroke or banged it on a rock or shell bar.
3) Blade shape, because I don't want a lot of cavatation (slipping/fluttering) during a paddle stroke.
4) Cost, because I want the most paddle for the least amount of money.
My paddling style is more of a low brace with a slower than normal cadence. When I ordered my ONNO (Signature Carbon) from Patrick he suggested that I go with a shorter paddle than what I had been using and a full tour blade. I had to change my style a little, but it really improved my paddling efficiency. I gained .6 to .8 MPH (on the GPS) on my cruise speed. It doesn't sound like much, till you do the math. That's a little over a 20% gain. I sure can tell the difference at the end of the day.
To sum it up, The only thing I'd change with my ONNO would be the cost. They are not cheap, but cost less than other paddles that I have that aren't as efficient or as enjoyable to use.
- gerald
- TKF 4000 Club
- Posts: 4174
- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2003 10:48 am
- Location: Gatesville, tx www.theoldmansboats.com
Speaking of paddles....
I just bought my first paddle. It breaks down to two parts. What do I apply to the end of it to make it less difficult to take it apart? Graphite powder? gulf wax?
Paddles
Don't apply anything. Just keep it very clean. This joint is very close tolerance. If you apply anything liquid. You'll get a hydraulic lock. Do you hold the paddle vertical to assemble & disassamble?
- pencil5757
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2003 10:21 pm
- Location: Sam Rayburn, East Texas
paddle
I use the Walmart paddle all the time and have paddled for miles and miles with it it works fine.
Thanks, Newt
OK. I won't grease up the paddle joints. And no, I hadn't tried holding it vertical during take apart or joining the two parts. Should I store it assembled or broken apart? On a horizontal or vertical plane? I don't want to damage it.
Can you tell I'm a rookie or what?
Can you tell I'm a rookie or what?
Paddles
I store my apart. I don't think vertical or horizontal makes a difference. I emphasis keeping the joint clean because mine stuck one time. I had a devil of a time getting it back to two pieces. It is the consensus opion that if the joint is clean, it won't stick. You might inspect yours to see if there are any burrs. If so remove them carefully. You want a tight joint.