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By wandering wader
i have never noticed Modulus and Strain ratings on the rods i purchase. is that information available on the products in the big box stores or must one go to a factory storefront to get it prior to purchase?
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Tombo wrote:I like to borrow a reel from the store and mount it on the fishing rod.

also bring a soft plastic & stick it sideways over the eye & you can get a better idea of how the rod will load & that will help on figuring the action you want.
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By kneekap
Even more illuminating is that everyone I know who has purchased a graphite rod has broken their tip off! Never had a break with zillions of plain old glass rods. Seems like a big price to pay for all that lightness. But to each his own.
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By hookset4
kneekap wrote:...everyone I know who has purchased a graphite rod has broken their tip off!

EVERYONE you know who has EVER purchased a graphite rod??? Pretty strong statement.

I have at least one graphite rod over 40 years old (yeah, I bought one of the first Fenwicks), some over 30 years old and several over 20 years old with no broken tips. I HAVE broken a couple of graphite tips (2) in car windows and tailgates, but have ruined a couple of fiberglass rods the same way.

By Wolfman57
Having built a fair share of rods I have seen this in action. The super light rods are very prone to being creased causing them to fail under pressure. If I took better care of my rods I would go for a super light setup.

But get me a mid grade carbon fiber rid matched to my reel and the balance really doesn't feel that much heavier
By Russ in Rockport
My opinion is that rod lightness is like everything else--you can carry it to extremes, and when you do, there are apt to be unintended negative consequences. I once saw a picture of an RL Winston employee doing a dead lift of 22 pounds with a Carbon/Boron composite 12 weight (which I now own). He was wearing a welding helmet and a lead apron in case the thing broke and splintered. My first rod was made from a solid steel blank with a little level wind reel on it. Talk about a dog--but I could actually cast Hula Poppers with it--Abu Reflex spinners--not so much. When graphite came out, I couldn't whip it around like solid or hollow glass and I didn't fish with the stuff for years. To me, the greatest advantage of graphite--up to a point--is its sensitivity--kind of like the advantage of braided super lines. It helps you feel the fish.

Best regards,

By LeviathanCustomRods
That is a great article, and I've often quoted it to others. We started out using "high modulus" blanks in all of our rod lines, believing them to be the best. In recent years, we've opted for mid modulus blanks because of durability reasons and value. I don't believe most anglers could tell the difference between high modulus and mid to low modulus rods after taking the pepsi challenge--and that's not a bad thing. Our pros can, but they don't really count; they also know how to fish specific high modulus rods to avoid snapping them. . . most of the time :wink:

I see that "lightness" has been brought up, which is of course very important. Rod weight can vary so much across companies and lines that it's hard to use that as a decisive criterion. We have some low to mid modulus blanks that are just as light as high modulus ones, and some are even lighter. I know that's counterintuitive, but it's true.

So what's the best blank for the buck? We love St. Croix blanks, since they're high quality, made in the US and reasonably priced. But, our go-to special forces rod will always be the Loomis NFC standard modulus (SM) blank, which is hand-rolled in WA state where Gary started. The NFC SM line strikes the perfect balance between quality and durability for a great price.
Leviathan logos rods (1).jpg
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By Merman
I've built my own rods , mainly inshore fishing , casting lures & live bait . Rods depend on how you like to fish and what you're trying to catch . I fished out of yaks for years and waded years before that . I have 2 rods that cover all my fishing conditions . I have 2 custom rods I built 8ft , one is a rainshadow 10 - 17 lb , other is and old castaway gulf coast special blank 8ft ... 6 - 12 lb , sic - ti guides , one has cermet - ti tip and stripper guide , the guides are spiral wrapped which puts line on the bottom of the rod with a baitcast reel . I always fished 8 lb line when warm , and 10 lb when it got cool ... The rainshadaow can be set up with a Calcutta 400 with 17 lb and fish the surf , but with light line it will chunk big lures real far . Longer rods take a little technique to use but once you know your limits you can cover some water ...
I had not buy a new casting rod in a while and yesterday went to buy 4 , when I got to the store
I was amaze of the rod prices now days. :mrgreen:

I ended up buying 2 medium action . 6.6" ugly stick rods with cork handles for 49 each.

I really was tempted to buy the st croix Bass rods.
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By AlanC
I like the graphite for surf casting- my Monster rod I got from Squid Jig is a bit of a handful but it would be worse from fiberglass. Then again it is 23'. It is harder to cast but It has one major advantage while surf fishing- it holds the line way up in the air and cuts down on seaweed collection. My HDX is more reasonable to cast with though. For the kayak it's the Tigerstick.
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By Ron Mc
when you paddle upwind to a barrier on rising tide, stake out and wade for fish sign, then put out the drift sock to bind fish home sitting in your kayak seat, the longer the rod, the better. This is for keeping better control on your lure depth fishing grass with long blind casts while sitting down.
For my baitcaster, I use a Lamiglas Rogue River Special, 8-1/2' 10-25-lb, 3/8-2oz.
My favorite spinning rod is a Lami G1325 Medium Light, 9' 6-12-lb, 1/8-1/2 oz.
Both are NW steelhead rods, but perfect for this task.

I also have an 8-1/2' Loomis G2 spinning rod, rated the same as the Lami Rogue River, but it's more work to fish than either Lami graphite.
My inshore fly rods are Sage RPLX7 and a Japanese inshore S-glass rod, 8-1/2' 6/7-wt para taper, which is a jewel. It does everything the RPLX does with less fatigue, unless the wind is over 15 knots, then only the Sage works.
By knotme
Wondering if you guys might want to help me out here. I just bought a Shimano Teramar, 8' 6", 50 - 65 lb braid rating, got it home and found that I can't get the intended reel on it. The seat is too short, as in the distance between the "clamps" maxes out at 2-11/16" inches. Given that my other 7 spinning rods which measure from 6'for a 10lb class to a 10' surf rod, have seat openings from 3" - 3-3/4" inches I am wondering whether this is a factory assembly goof or some kind of design flaw. Any of you got a tape and a few moments to let me know what seat openings you have? Appreciate it upfront. If this is the wrong place for the ?, please just point me in the right direction.

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