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By Ron Mc
#2294871
I think flounder eyes and flounder teeth are both better for using good size fluoro. You can always allbright-knot a 2' 25- or 30-lb fluoro leader to your braid and still cast the same.
By mwatson71
#2294905
My response aligns with Ron Mc although I use a double uni knot as my line-to-line knot. I caught about a dozen flounder this weekend on braid with about a 2' leader of 30# fluorocarbon with a gray Vudu shad on the end of the leader. Unfortunately, only one of them was legal sized. Before posting this response, I went to do a check on the leader and it is still in great condition.
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By Ron Mc
#2294909
I use double uni's for splicing line everywhere, bro, but as a fly fisherman, I've been tying allbright knots all my life, and when the diameter difference is really big, it makes a smoother and stronger transition. E.g., thick fly line to braided backing.
https://www.101knots.com/improved-albright-knot.html

I also use Allbright for making mackerel and jack leaders with 12-lb wire braid to Mason leader butt. Many people will use single strand wire and tie on lure/fly with haywire twists and Bimini knots, which you have to use your feet in addition to your hands - but with the braided wire leader, I simply use a crimp sleeve to attach fly or lure.
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By SteveRetrieve
#2294914
I’m a huge fan of modern braid. Casts further, more sensitive, lasts forever. I always use a 2 to 3 foot piece of fluorocarbon leader. I tie the FG knot at home but the uni-uni on the water.

I still have mono on one of my baitcasters because it handles it so well, but not necessarily because I think it catches me more fish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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By Ron Mc
#2294915
mono working line simply solves both wind knots and backlashes easier.
If your spinning and baitcasting techniques properly control each, no reason not to cast braid.
If you're lazy about your technique, better to use mono (fluoro) working line.

As far as drag settings and line toughness, we rarely set our drags high enough to matter - if you've ever set a drag to 5-lbs or more with a spring scale (e.g., setting up a lever drag), it's a freaking bunch of drag.
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By karstopo
#2294917
Another one here for the braid to fluorocarbon leader joined by an Albright special knot. I put a tiny drop of UV cure glue on the knot just to smooth it out as it goes through the rod guides accelerating on the cast. Just spooled up a new Chronarch 150HG with some 40# power pro slick. Don’t really need 40#, but it still casts a mile even with the heavier braid. I like heavier braid just because it handles nicely and might just hang in there a little longer in the shell I frequent.

My buddy gets a lot of flounder just fishing straight nylon Monofilament. He might have 12# on. Flounder have wicked teeth if you happen to get a finger near them, but they don’t seem to be bad about cutting line in my experience.

There’s typically several different ways to skin the cat.

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This 16” one came in about 15” of water from the outflow of a small marsh drain on Saturday.

I like Fluorocarbon tippet when I try for flounder with fly tackle. Flounder, in my experience, really suck in the relatively small fly patterns like this borski slider and hardly ever come off at the net. Thin wire, super sharp fly hooks like the size 4 forged carbon steel Gamakatsu SL-45 one in the photo don’t hurt things either. I don’t pause much setting the hook with flies. Get the thump and then a sharp strip set.
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By Dandydon
#2294920
Thanks for the great Flounder and fishing line info, gentlemen. I get stoked this time of year when the flatfish get active.

Tonight I'm baking the one I caught in Christmas Bay.

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By SWFinatic
#2294921
karstopo wrote:I put a tiny drop of UV cure glue on the knot just to smooth it out as it goes through the rod guides accelerating on the cast.


Good tip. Any brand you've found to work better than others?
User avatar
By karstopo
#2294922
Loon makes one called "knot sense" that is specifically formulated for smoothing out/reinforcing knots. Don't forget direct sunlight activates and hardens these UV cure products in a few seconds, no UV flashlight necessary. I bought a generic UV flashlight off Amazon that's 1/4 the price of the Loon model and it works fine.

I use whatever thin UV cure I have on hand, Loon or Solarez. Less is more in this type of application. Just enough to barely cover the very short tag end of the fluorocarbon and an ultrathin layer over the thread wraps. Some people put a thin layer of UV on the material as they tie the knot, then light it up with the UV torch. I prefer to put on the UV as the knot is cinched up and the tag ends cut. a full drop is too much. The finished knot really wont be any bigger, just smoother. Keeps grass from hanging up on that knot should you fish grass much.
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By TroutSupport.com
#2295059
braid for flounder all the way. You need the hook setting power for them. It would be ok to use a leader if you want to but many are caught tying directly to the eye. Flounder arn't line shy.
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